WHEN-I-WAS-A-BOY I once climbed over a fence into a field, and before I knew it a bull was dashing toward me. I barely had time to scramble back over the fence again-a narrow escape; I didn't see any fun in it at all. But in Spain on Sundays and holidays great crowds of people go to an outdoor theater called the bull-ring to see men fight bulls.
The people sit on seats outside a fence that shuts in a sandy field, and from that safe place they watch the bull-fights. A gate is opened into the field and a big, wild bull rushes in. A man called a bull-fighter goes to meet him with a red cloak in his hand and waves it in the face of the bull. This makes the bull mad, so with lowered horns he charges the red cloak. The bull-fighter jumps to one side just as the bull reaches him, and the angry bull, unable to turn quickly, passes him by. The bull-fighter teases the bull in this way again and again. After worrying him in various ways, as a cat plays with a mouse, the bull-fighter kills the bull with a thrust of a long sword. It seems to us very cruel, but in Spain they say we kill bulls for meat and do not give any one the fun of seeing them killed.
A bull-fighter has to be very brave and very skilful, and his foot must not slip on the sandy ground, or he cannot dodge the bull and he will be killed. Almost every city and town in Spain has a bull-ring, as almost every city in the United States has a baseball field or a stadium, for bull-fighting is a national sport, as baseball or football is our national sport. Even boys play bull-fighting, one making believe he is the bull and the other the bull-fighter.
Every country seems to have certain games they like to play best. In Spain the girls do not jump rope, but they dance instead, and keep time by clicking little clappers on their fingers, often singing as they do so. The clappers look like big chestnuts and so are called castanets, which means chestnuts. They dance in twos and fours on the sidewalk, in the parks and squares, wherever our children would jump rope or play hop-scotch. Even in the great Cathedral of Seville the choir boys dance with castanets in front of the altar at certain church festivals. It is the only place in the World where any one dances in church.
Spanish houses have no front yard nor back yard nor side yard, but an inside yard with the rooms all around it. This inside yard is called a patio and it is often a living-room and dining-room for all who live in the house.
As you ride through Spain on a train you can see from the car window a very peculiar looking tree-different from any tree that grows in our country. This is the cork-tree. The little and big corks we use for bottle stoppers don't grow on trees as cherries or peaches do. They are made from the bark of a kind of oak. The bark is cut off from the tree in large pieces and cut up into big and little corks. The tree then grows another coat of bark, but it takes nine years to grow a thick enough bark to be cut again. So every cork you use is nearly as old as you are, or older.
Cork-trees live to a great age, much longer than people do. But another tree you see in Spain grows to be still older. It is the olive-tree, which bears a fruit that looks something like green cherries. It is said that olive-trees have been known to live and bear fruit for a thousand years! Olives have been used as food since Bible times and long before that, and yet many people have to learn to like them. Olives are also pressed to make olive oil, which we use in salad dressing, for no other kind of oil is quite as good for food. In Spain they often use it instead of butter, and it is also made into a very pure soap called Castile soap, which you may have used.
Winners of games long ago used to be crowned with a wreath made of olive leaves, and in time of war, messengers bringing peace used to carry an olive branch. In certain parts of Spain you can ride all day long on a train and see olive-trees, olive-trees, olive-trees, from morning to night, till you wonder what the people can do with so many. They use a great many olives themselves, for olives are often bread and butter, meat and vegetables to Spaniards, but they send millions of bottles of olives and olive oil all over the World to other countries that have none.
One of those cities that says it is like Paris is the capital of Spain. It is near the center of the country. It is called Madrid. Old Madrid had narrow streets and small houses. New Madrid has broad boulevards and big buildings, and if you did not hear the people speaking Spanish you might think you were in Paris or even in New York. In old Spain men used to say all the time "Manyana," which means "to-morrow," for they put off everything they could until to-morrow. New Spain says "Do it now." When you are in Madrid and say you live in America, they think you mean South America, and that of course you speak Spanish, for to a Spaniard "America" means South America. A Spaniard who has made his fortune in South America comes "home to Madrid" to live on what he has made, for a house in Madrid is his "Castle in Spain."
Sometimes two brothers have families and live in the same house, but usually they get along better if they live in separate houses. Portugal and Spain are like two brothers. They speak a language that is alike and the people are alike in other ways, but they have never been able to get along together, though they tried it once for a little while. In both countries they like dancing and music. In both countries they raise cork and olives. In both countries they like bull-fights-though in Portugal they do not kill the bull, and they wrap the points of his horns so that he can't kill.
我小的時(shí)候有一次爬過(guò)籬笆,跑到一塊田里。還沒(méi)等我反應(yīng)過(guò)來(lái),就有一頭公牛向我沖過(guò)來(lái)。我趕緊從籬笆上爬回去--差一點(diǎn)就被公牛頂?shù)?;我可沒(méi)覺(jué)得那有什么好玩的。但在西班牙,每逢星期天和節(jié)假日,人們成群結(jié)隊(duì)到一個(gè)叫做斗牛場(chǎng)的露天劇場(chǎng)去觀看斗牛。
斗牛場(chǎng)中間有一塊沙地,四周?chē)鴸艡?,人們坐在柵欄外的座位上,可以安全地觀看斗牛表演。通向中間場(chǎng)地的門(mén)打開(kāi)后一頭高大兇猛的公牛就沖了進(jìn)來(lái)。一個(gè)叫做斗牛士的人手拿紅色斗篷出來(lái)迎接它,并在它的面前揮舞斗篷。這個(gè)動(dòng)作激怒了公牛,于是它低下頭,頭角向著斗篷。斗牛士在公牛就要頂?shù)剿且凰查g跳到一旁,憤怒的公牛不能迅速轉(zhuǎn)身就從他的身邊擦身而過(guò)。斗牛士就用這種方式一次又一次地逗弄公牛。像貓戲弄老鼠那樣用各種方法折磨它之后,用一把長(zhǎng)劍刺死公牛。在我們看來(lái)這似乎很殘忍,但西班牙人說(shuō)我們殺牛吃肉卻不讓人有看牛被殺的樂(lè)趣。
斗牛士必須非常的勇敢,也要很有技巧,他的腳在沙地上不能打滑,否則就無(wú)法躲開(kāi)公牛,死在牛角下。西班牙幾乎每個(gè)城鎮(zhèn)都有斗牛場(chǎng),就像美國(guó)幾乎每個(gè)城市都有棒球場(chǎng)或體育場(chǎng)一樣,因?yàn)槎放J俏靼嘌酪豁?xiàng)全民娛樂(lè),就像棒球或橄欖球是美國(guó)的全民娛樂(lè)一樣。甚至小男孩都玩斗牛游戲,一個(gè)假扮牛,另一個(gè)假扮斗牛士。
每個(gè)國(guó)家似乎都有某些人們最喜歡的運(yùn)動(dòng)。在西班牙,女孩們不跳繩,她們跳舞,一邊跳舞一邊按節(jié)拍用手指上的響板敲出"咔噠、咔噠"的聲音,還常伴著唱歌。這種響板看起來(lái)就像大栗子,所以在西班牙語(yǔ)中"響板"(castanet)就是栗子的意思。她們兩人一對(duì)或四人一組在人行道、公園里或廣場(chǎng)上跳舞,凡是在我們的孩子跳繩或玩"跳房子"游戲的地方,她們都會(huì)去跳舞。甚至在塞維利亞大教堂,在某些宗教節(jié)日里唱詩(shī)班的男孩也會(huì)在圣壇前手持響板跳舞。那是世界上唯一能在教堂里跳舞的地方。
西班牙的房屋沒(méi)有前院、沒(méi)有后院,也沒(méi)有側(cè)院,但有個(gè)四周都是房間的內(nèi)院。這個(gè)內(nèi)院叫做"天井",通常作為住房的客廳和餐廳。
當(dāng)你乘火車(chē)在西班牙旅行時(shí),你可能會(huì)看到車(chē)窗外有一種樣子很奇特的樹(shù)--和美國(guó)的任何一種樹(shù)都不一樣。這種樹(shù)叫做栓皮櫧。我們用作瓶塞的大大小小的軟木塞子并不是像櫻桃或桃子那樣長(zhǎng)在樹(shù)上的,而是用栓皮櫧這種橡樹(shù)的樹(shù)皮做的。大塊的樹(shù)皮從樹(shù)上割下來(lái)切成大大小小的軟木塞。剝過(guò)皮的樹(shù)然后會(huì)長(zhǎng)出新一層樹(shù)皮,但是新一層樹(shù)皮要長(zhǎng)9年,才能達(dá)到足夠的厚度,被再次剝下來(lái)。所以你用的每一個(gè)軟木塞的年齡和你差不多大,有的也許比你還大。
栓皮櫧樹(shù)齡很長(zhǎng),比人的壽命要長(zhǎng)得多。但在西班牙你還能看到一種樹(shù),樹(shù)齡更長(zhǎng)。那就是橄欖樹(shù),它的果實(shí)看起來(lái)有點(diǎn)像綠色的櫻桃。據(jù)說(shuō)有人見(jiàn)過(guò)樹(shù)齡達(dá)一千年的橄欖樹(shù),而且還能結(jié)果實(shí)!早在《圣經(jīng)》時(shí)代以前橄欖就被用作食物了,但很多人必須經(jīng)過(guò)一段時(shí)間才能習(xí)慣它的味道。橄欖還可以經(jīng)過(guò)壓榨做成橄欖油,就是我們?cè)谏忱{(diào)料中用的橄欖油,因?yàn)槟鞘亲罴训氖秤糜?。西班牙人常用橄欖油不用黃油,橄欖油還能用來(lái)生產(chǎn)一種非常純正的肥皂,叫做"卡斯蒂利亞肥皂",你也許就用過(guò)。
古代,比賽獲勝者都給戴上橄欖枝做成的花環(huán),在戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)期間,帶來(lái)和平消息的信使攜帶著一枝橄欖枝。在西班牙有些地方,你坐了一整天火車(chē),從早到晚看到的都是橄欖樹(shù),橄欖樹(shù),橄欖樹(shù),這時(shí)你不禁會(huì)想人們有這么多的橄欖樹(shù)能做什么呢。他們自己使用大量的橄欖,因?yàn)閷?duì)西班牙人來(lái)說(shuō)橄欖就意味著面包和黃油、肉和蔬菜,但他們還把無(wú)數(shù)瓶橄欖和橄欖油出口到世界各地不產(chǎn)橄欖的國(guó)家。
很多城市的居民都說(shuō)自己的城市像巴黎,西班牙首都就是其中一個(gè)城市。它差不多位于這個(gè)國(guó)家的中心。叫做馬德里。舊馬德里的街道狹窄,房屋矮小。新馬德里有寬敞的林蔭大道和高大的樓房,如果不是聽(tīng)到有人說(shuō)西班牙語(yǔ)的話,你也許會(huì)覺(jué)得自己是在巴黎或者甚至在紐約。在以前的西班牙,人們總是說(shuō)"Manyana",意思就是"明天吧",因?yàn)樗麄兛偸前阉心芡系氖虑槎纪系矫魈煸僬f(shuō)?,F(xiàn)在西班牙人會(huì)說(shuō)"現(xiàn)在就做"。如果在馬德里你說(shuō)自己住在美國(guó),他們認(rèn)為你是說(shuō)南美洲[1],并且認(rèn)為你肯定會(huì)說(shuō)西班牙語(yǔ),因?yàn)閷?duì)西班牙人來(lái)說(shuō),"美國(guó)"就意味著"南美洲"。一個(gè)在南美洲發(fā)了財(cái)?shù)奈靼嘌廊艘洛\還鄉(xiāng)回到馬德里,靠自己掙的那筆錢(qián)就生活在馬德里了,因?yàn)轳R德里的房子才是他的"西班牙城堡"--他心目中最奇妙的房子。
有時(shí)兩兄弟都成家后仍然住在同一個(gè)房屋里,但如果他們分開(kāi)住的話通常會(huì)相處得更好。葡萄牙和西班牙就像兩兄弟。他們說(shuō)的語(yǔ)言很相似,在生活習(xí)慣等方面也很相似,但他們始終合不來(lái),盡管偶爾他們也努力和好過(guò)。兩個(gè)國(guó)家的人都喜歡舞蹈和音樂(lè),都種植栓皮櫧和橄欖樹(shù),都喜歡斗牛--不過(guò)在葡萄牙他們不殺死公牛,而是把牛的尖角包起來(lái),這樣斗牛士就不會(huì)喪命了。
[1] 英語(yǔ)"America"(美國(guó))一詞也可表示:"美洲"、"北美洲"、"南美洲"--譯者注。
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