IT was hot coming down into the valley even in the early morning.The sun melted the snow from the skis we were carrying and dried the wood.It was spring in the valley but the sun was very hot.We came along the road into Galtur carrying our skis and rucksacks.As we passed the churchyard a burial was just over.I said,“Grüss Gott,”to the priest as he walked past us coming out of the churchyard.The priest bowed.
“It's funny a priest never speaks to you,”John said.
“You'd think they'd like to say‘Grüss Gott.’”
“They never answer,”John said.
We stopped in the road and watched the sexton shoveling in the new earth.A peasant with a black beard and high leather boots stood beside the grave.The sexton stopped shoveling and straightened his back.The peasant in the high boots took the spade from the sexton and went on flling the grave—spreading the earth evenly as a man spreading manure in a garden.In the bright May morning the grave-flling looked unreal.I could not imagine anyone being dead.
“Imagine being buried on a day like this,”I said to John.
“I wouldn't like it.”
“Well,”I said,“we don't have to do it.”
We went on up the road past the houses of the town to the inn.Wehad been skiing in the Silvretta for a month, and it was good to be down in the valley.In the Silvretta the skiing had been all right, but it was spring skiing, the snow was only good in the early morning and again in the evening.The rest of the time it was spoiled by the sun.We were both tired of the sun.You could not get away from the sun.The only shadows were made by rocks or by the hut that was built under the protection of a rock beside a glacier, and in the shade the sweat froze in your underclothing.You could not sit outside the hut without dark glasses.It was pleasant to be burned black but the sun had been very tiring.You could not rest in it.I was glad to be down away from snow.It was too late in the spring to be up in the Silvretta.I was a little tired of skiing.We had stayed too long.I could taste the snow water we had been drinking melted off the tin roof of the hut.The taste was a part of the way I felt about skiing.I was glad there were other things beside skiing, and I was glad to be down, away from the unnatural high mountain spring, into this May morning in the valley.
The innkeeper sat on the porch of the inn, his chair tipped back against the wall.Beside him sat the cook.
“Ski-heil!”said the innkeeper.
“Heil!”we said and leaned the skis against the wall and took off our packs.
“How was it up above?”asked the innkeeper.
“Sch?n.A little too much sun.”
“Yes.There's too much sun this time of year.”
The cook sat on in his chair.The innkeeper went in with us and unlocked his offce and brought out our mail.There was a bundle of letters and some papers.
“Let's get some beer,”John said.
“Good.We'll drink it inside.”
The proprietor brought two bottles and we drank them while we read the letters.
“We better have some more beer,”John said.A girl brought it this time.She smiled as she opened the bottles.
“Many letters,”she said.
“Yes.Many.”
“Prosit,”she said and went out, taking the empty bottles.
“I'd forgotten what beer tasted like.”
“I hadn't,”John said.“Up in the hut I used to think about it a lot.”
“Well,”I said,“we've got it now.”
“You oughtn't to ever do anything too long.”
“No.We were up there too long.”
“Too damn long,”John said.“It's no good doing a thing too long.”
The sun came through the open window and shone through the beer bottles on the table.The bottles were half full.There was a little froth on the beer in the bottles, not much, because it was very cold.It collared up when you poured it into the tall glasses.I looked out of the open window at the white road.The trees beside the road were dusty.Beyond was a green field and a stream.There were trees along the stream and a mill with a water wheel.Through the open side of the mill I saw a long log and a saw in it rising and falling.No one seemed to be tending it.There were four crows walking in the green feld.One crow sat in a tree watching.Outside on the porch the cook got off his chair and passed into the hall that led back into the kitchen.Inside, the sunlight shone through the emptyglasses on the table.John was leaning forward with his head on his arms.
Through the window I saw two men come up the front steps.They came into the drinking room.One was the bearded peasant in the high boots.The other was the sexton.They sat down at the table under the window.The girl came in and stood by their table.The peasant did not seem to see her.He sat with his hands on the table.He wore his old army clothes.There were patches on the elbows.
“What will it be?”asked the sexton.The peasant did not pay any attention.
“What will you drink?”
“Schnapps,”the peasant said.
“And a quarter liter of red wine,”the sexton told the girl.
The girl brought the drinks and the peasant drank the schnapps.He looked out of the window.The sexton watched him.John had his head forward on the table.He was asleep.
The innkeeper came in and went over to the table.He spoke in dialect and the sexton answered him.The peasant looked out of the window.The innkeeper went out of the room.The peasant stood up.He took a folded ten-thousand kronen note out of a leather pocket-book and unfolded it.The girl came up.
“Alles?”she asked.
“Alles,”he said.
“Let me buy the wine,”the sexton said.
“Alles,”the peasant repeated to the girl.She put her hand in the pocket of her apron, brought it out full of coins and counted out the change.The peasant went out of the door.As soon as he was gone theinnkeeper came into the room again and spoke to the sexton.He sat down at the table.They talked in dialect.The sexton was amused.The innkeeper was disgusted.The sexton stood up from the table.He was a little man with a moustache.He leaned out of the window and looked up the road.
“There he goes in,”he said.
“In the L?wen?”
“Ja.”
They talked again and then the innkeeper came over to our table.The innkeeper was a tall man and old.He looked at John asleep.
“He's pretty tired.”
“Yes, we were up early.”
“Will you want to eat soon?”
“Any time,”I said.“What is there to eat?”
“Anything you want.The girl will bring the eating-card.”
The girl brought the menu.John woke up.The menu was written in ink on a card and the card slipped into a wooden paddle.
“There's the Speisekarte,”I said to John.He looked at it.He was still sleepy.
“Won't you have a drink with us?”I asked the innkeeper.
He sat down.“Those peasants are beasts,”said the innkeeper.
“We saw that one at a funeral coming in to town.”
“That was his wife.”
“Oh.”
“He's a beast.All these peasants are beasts.”
“How do you mean?”
“You wouldn't believe it.You wouldn't believe what just happenedto that one.”
“Tell me.”
“You wouldn't believe it.”The innkeeper spoke to the sexton.“Franz, come over here.”The sexton came, bringing his little bottle of wine and his glass.
“The gentlemen are just come down from the Wiesbade-nerhütte,”the innkeeper said.We shook hands.
“What will you drink?”I asked.
“Nothing,”Franz shook his fnger.
“Another quarter liter?”
“All right.”
“Do you understand dialect?”the innkeeper asked.
“No.”
“What's it all about?”John asked.
“He's going to tell us about the peasant we saw filling the grave, coming into town.”
“I can't understand it, anyway,”John said.“It goes too fast for me.”
“That peasant,”the innkeeper said,“today he brought his wife in to be buried.She died last November.”
“December,”said the sexton.
“That makes nothing.She died last December then, and he notifed the commune.”
“December eighteenth,”said the sexton.
“Anyway, he couldn't bring her over to be buried until the snow was gone.”
“He lives on the other side of the Paznaun,”said the sexton.“But hebelongs to this parish.”
“He couldn't bring her out at all?”I asked.
“No.He can only come, from where he lives, on skis until the snow melts.So today he brought her in to be buried and the priest, when he looked at her face, didn't want to bury her.You go on and tell it,”he said to the sexton.“Speak German, not dialect.”
“It was very funny with the priest,”said the sexton.“In the report to the commune she died of heart trouble.We knew she had heart trouble here.She used to faint in church sometimes.She did not come for a long time.She wasn't strong to climb.When the priest uncovered her face he asked Olz,‘Did your wife suffer much?'‘No,'said Olz.‘When I came in the house she was dead across the bed.'”
“The priest looked at her again.He didn't like it.”
“‘How did her face get that way?'”
“‘I don't know,'Olz said.”
“‘You'd better find out,'the priest said, and put the blanket back.Olz didn't say anything.The priest looked at him.Olz looked back at the priest.‘You want to know?'”
“‘I must know,'the priest said.”
“This is where it's good,”the innkeeper said.“Listen to this.Go on Franz.”
“‘Well,'said Olz,‘when she died I made the report to the commune and I put her in the shed across the top of the big wood.When I started to use the big wood she was stiff and I put her up against the wall.Her mouth was open and when I came to the shed at night to cut up the big wood, I hung the lantern from it.'”
“‘Why did you do that?'asked the priest.”
“‘I don't know,'said Olz.”
“‘Did you do that many times?'”
“‘Every time I went to work in the shed at night.'”
“‘It was very wrong,'said the priest.‘Did you love your wife?'”
“‘Ja, I loved her,'Olz said.‘I loved her fne.'”
“Did you understand it all?”asked the innkeeper.“You understand it all about his wife?”
“I heard it.”
“How about eating?”John asked.
“You order,”I said.“Do you think it's true?”I asked the innkeeper.
“Sure it's true,”he said.“These peasants are beasts.”
“Where did he go now?”
“He's gone to drink at my colleague's, the L?wen!”
“He didn't want to drink with me,”said the sexton.
“He didn't want to drink with me, after he knew about his wife,”said the innkeeper.
“Say,”said John.“How about eating?”
“All right,”I said.
即便清晨走進(jìn)山谷,也會(huì)感到渾身發(fā)熱。太陽(yáng)把我們滑雪板上的殘雪曬得融化了,把滑雪板也曬干了。雖然還只是春天,山谷里的太陽(yáng)卻火辣辣的。我們拿著滑雪板,背著帆布包,沿著大路走進(jìn)了加爾蒂[68]。經(jīng)過(guò)教堂墓地時(shí),一場(chǎng)葬禮剛剛結(jié)束。牧師出了墓地,從我們身邊走過(guò),我對(duì)他說(shuō)了聲:“愿上帝保佑你!”他沖我躬了躬身子。
“奇怪的是,牧師從不跟人講話。”約翰說(shuō)。
“你以為他們喜歡說(shuō)‘愿上帝保佑你’這樣的話?”
“反正他們從不搭腔。”約翰說(shuō)。
我們停下腳步,站在路上觀看教堂司事在鏟新土。一個(gè)留著黑胡子的農(nóng)民穿著高腰皮靴守在旁邊。教堂司事停下手里的活兒,直起腰來(lái),穿高腰皮靴的農(nóng)民便從他手中接過(guò)鏟子,繼續(xù)往墓坑里填土——他把土撒得很勻,就像在菜園里撒肥料一樣。在這么一個(gè)陽(yáng)光燦爛的五月份的上午埋死人顯得很不真實(shí)。我簡(jiǎn)直想象不出來(lái)這樣的時(shí)候會(huì)死人。
“這樣的日子埋死人,你能想象得出來(lái)嗎?”我對(duì)約翰說(shuō)。
“我不喜歡這樣。”
“還好,”我說(shuō),“咱們不必干這種倒霉的事。”
我們繼續(xù)行路,從鎮(zhèn)上鱗次櫛比的人家門前走過(guò),徑直到了客棧。在錫爾夫雷塔[69]待了一個(gè)月,此時(shí)來(lái)到這條山谷,我們感覺(jué)很好。在錫爾夫雷塔滑雪固然很棒,但到了春天,那兒的雪只適合早晚滑,其他的時(shí)間段,雪都叫太陽(yáng)給糟蹋了。我們倆都討厭上了太陽(yáng),唯恐躲避不及。在陽(yáng)光下,只有巉巖和小木屋(那座小木屋建在冰川旁的巖石后,以巖石作掩護(hù))才會(huì)投下些許陰影。躲到陰影里,你內(nèi)衣上的汗水就會(huì)結(jié)成冰。你不戴墨鏡,根本無(wú)法坐在小屋外面。把皮膚曬黑本來(lái)是件挺開心的事,可是太陽(yáng)實(shí)在太令人討厭了。你沒(méi)法在太陽(yáng)下面休息。能夠下山,遠(yuǎn)離那片滑雪場(chǎng),我感到心情舒暢。春天去錫爾夫雷塔,未免有點(diǎn)兒太遲了。我都有點(diǎn)兒討厭滑雪了。我們?cè)谀莾捍臅r(shí)間太長(zhǎng),靠著喝小木屋鐵皮屋頂上融化的雪水度日,現(xiàn)在嘴里還有一股雪水味。這股味道,也是我們對(duì)滑雪的感受的一部分;幸好除了滑雪,還可以干別的有趣的事情,這叫我心里有了一些喜悅。我很高興能下山,遠(yuǎn)離高山上那反常的春天,來(lái)到這條山谷里,享受這融融的五月晨光。
客棧老板正坐在門廊那兒,椅子向后翹起,抵在墻上。廚子則坐在他身旁。
“嗨,滑雪的!”客棧老板說(shuō)。
“嗨!”我們一邊打招呼,一邊把滑雪板靠在墻上,卸下背包。
“山上怎么樣?”客棧老板問(wèn)。
“還好。就是太陽(yáng)有點(diǎn)兒太毒了。”
“是的。每年的這個(gè)時(shí)候太陽(yáng)都特別毒。”
廚子坐在椅子上沒(méi)動(dòng),而客棧老板把我們迎進(jìn)屋去,打開辦公室,取出我們的郵件——一捆信和幾份報(bào)紙。
“咱們喝點(diǎn)兒啤酒吧。”約翰說(shuō)。
“好。到里面去喝吧。”
老板送來(lái)兩瓶酒,我們一邊喝酒一邊看信。
“最好再來(lái)點(diǎn)兒啤酒。”約翰說(shuō)。這次送酒來(lái)的是個(gè)女孩。她開瓶時(shí)笑了笑。
“好多信喲!”她說(shuō)。
“是的,是很多。”
“祝你們一切如意!”[70]她說(shuō)完,拿著空酒瓶子走了出去。
“我都忘了啤酒是什么味道了。”
“我沒(méi)忘,”約翰說(shuō),“因?yàn)槲以谏缴系男∥堇锢舷雭?lái)著。”
“啊,”我說(shuō),“現(xiàn)在總算喝到啦。”
“什么事情都不能干的時(shí)間太長(zhǎng)。”
“是啊。咱們?cè)谏缴洗臅r(shí)間太長(zhǎng)了。”
“長(zhǎng)得簡(jiǎn)直不得了。”約翰說(shuō),“凡事時(shí)間過(guò)長(zhǎng),就沒(méi)有好結(jié)果。”
陽(yáng)光從敞開的窗戶射進(jìn)來(lái),透過(guò)啤酒瓶,照在桌子上。酒瓶里的酒剩下了一半,里面有一點(diǎn)兒泡沫,但因?yàn)樘鞖夂?,泡沫并不很多。把酒倒進(jìn)高腳杯里,泡沫就堆積了起來(lái)。從敞開的窗戶望出去,可以看見(jiàn)那條白顏色的大路,路邊的樹木落滿了灰塵。再往遠(yuǎn)看則是綠油油的田野和一條小溪,溪邊樹木成行,還有一個(gè)磨坊,磨坊里有個(gè)水輪。磨坊的一側(cè)是敞開的,可以看見(jiàn)有個(gè)大鋸在一上一下地鋸一根長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)的原木,似乎沒(méi)有人在跟前操作。四只烏鴉在綠野里走來(lái)走去,另有一只在樹上觀看。坐在門廊那兒的廚子離開了椅子,走進(jìn)了通往后邊廚房的門廳。屋內(nèi),陽(yáng)光透過(guò)空玻璃杯,射在桌子上。約翰趴在桌子上,把臉埋在兩條胳膊上。
從窗戶望出去,我看見(jiàn)有兩個(gè)人走上門前臺(tái)階,接著來(lái)到了酒吧間里。他們當(dāng)中的一個(gè)就是那個(gè)穿高腰皮靴的留黑胡子的農(nóng)民,另一位是教堂司事。他們?cè)诳看皯舻淖雷优月渥D莻€(gè)女孩進(jìn)來(lái),站在他們的桌子跟前。農(nóng)民似乎跟沒(méi)看見(jiàn)她一樣,兩只手放在桌上,呆坐著。他穿一身舊軍裝,胳膊肘上綴著補(bǔ)丁。
“要什么酒?”教堂司事問(wèn)。農(nóng)民沒(méi)有理會(huì)。
“想喝什么酒?”
“來(lái)點(diǎn)兒烈酒吧。”農(nóng)民說(shuō)。
“我要四分之一升紅葡萄酒。”教堂司事對(duì)女孩說(shuō)。
女孩拿來(lái)了酒。農(nóng)民把烈酒喝了,眼睛望著窗外。教堂司事則在觀察他。約翰臉?lè)谧雷由?,已?jīng)睡著了。
客棧老板走進(jìn)來(lái),到了他們的桌子跟前,用方言說(shuō)了句什么,教堂司事應(yīng)答著。農(nóng)民仍在望著窗外。老板出去了。農(nóng)民站起來(lái),從皮夾子里取出一張疊在一起的一萬(wàn)克朗[71]鈔票,把它展開。女孩走上前去。
“一起算?”女孩問(wèn)。
“一起算。”農(nóng)民回答。
“紅酒的錢我出。”教堂司事說(shuō)。
“一起算。”農(nóng)民把剛才的話又對(duì)女孩重復(fù)了一遍。女孩把手伸進(jìn)圍裙口袋里,掏出一把硬幣,數(shù)出了應(yīng)該找的錢。農(nóng)民走了。他前腳走,客棧老板后腳就進(jìn)來(lái)了,在教堂司事的桌旁坐下,跟他說(shuō)起了話。他們談話時(shí),都操方言。教堂司事樂(lè)呵呵的,而客棧老板則是一臉的厭惡。教堂司事是個(gè)小個(gè)子,留著小胡子。只見(jiàn)他從桌旁站起,把腦袋探出窗戶,朝大路那兒望了望。
“他進(jìn)去了。”教堂司事說(shuō)。
“進(jìn)洛溫旅館啦?”
“是的。”
他們又說(shuō)了一會(huì)兒話。后來(lái),客棧老板來(lái)到了我們桌子跟前。這位客棧老板是個(gè)老頭,個(gè)子高高的。他看了看正在呼呼大睡的約翰。
“他累壞了。”
“是的。我們今天起床起得早。”
“想不想馬上吃飯?”
“什么時(shí)候都可以。”我說(shuō),“有什么菜?”
“隨你點(diǎn)了。女孩會(huì)把菜單拿來(lái)的。”
女孩把菜單送來(lái)時(shí),約翰也醒了。菜單用墨水寫在卡片上,再將卡片嵌入一個(gè)木框。
“菜單來(lái)了。”我對(duì)約翰說(shuō)。他仍在發(fā)困,睡眼惺忪地看了看菜單。
“想跟我們喝杯酒嗎?”我問(wèn)客棧老板。
客棧老板坐了下來(lái)。“那些農(nóng)民簡(jiǎn)直就是畜生。”客棧老板說(shuō)。
“我們來(lái)小鎮(zhèn)的路上看見(jiàn)剛才的那位在辦葬禮。”
“死的是他的妻子。”
“噢。”
“那家伙是個(gè)畜生。那些農(nóng)民全都是畜生。”
“此話怎講?”
“說(shuō)出來(lái)你也不相信。他干的事情令人難以置信。”
“說(shuō)說(shuō)看。”
“你是絕對(duì)不會(huì)相信的。”客棧老板說(shuō)完,沖著教堂司事喊了一聲:“弗朗茲,你過(guò)來(lái)!”教堂司事拿著他那一小瓶葡萄酒和酒杯走了過(guò)來(lái)。
“這兩位先生剛從威斯巴登小屋那兒過(guò)來(lái)。”客棧老板介紹道。我們相互握了手。
“你喝什么酒?”我問(wèn)。
“什么酒也不喝了。”弗朗茲擺了擺手說(shuō)。
“再來(lái)四分之一升紅酒怎么樣?”
“那好吧。”
“你懂我們的地方話?”客棧老板問(wèn)。
“不懂。”
“你在搞什么名堂?”約翰問(wèn)。
“咱們來(lái)鎮(zhèn)上,半路不是見(jiàn)到一個(gè)農(nóng)民在埋死人嗎,聽(tīng)他講一講那個(gè)農(nóng)民的情況。”
“講了我也聽(tīng)不明白的。”約翰說(shuō),“事情發(fā)生得太快了。”
“那個(gè)農(nóng)民,”老板說(shuō),“今天才把他的妻子下葬,而他的妻子去年十一月就死了。”
“是十二月。”教堂司事說(shuō)。
“這沒(méi)什么關(guān)系。就算是去年十二月死的吧。當(dāng)時(shí)他把死訊告訴了教區(qū)。”
“是在十二月十八號(hào)告訴的。”教堂司事說(shuō)。
“不管怎樣吧,反正當(dāng)時(shí)不能送死者去墓地安葬,得等雪化之后才行。”
“他住在帕斯農(nóng)山谷的另一側(cè),”教堂司事說(shuō),“但他屬于這個(gè)教區(qū)。”
“難道不能想辦法把死者送過(guò)來(lái)嗎?”
“不行。得等到雪化之后,才能從他住的地方用雪橇送過(guò)來(lái),所以今天才送來(lái)下葬。牧師看了看死者的臉,不愿為她主持葬禮。接下來(lái)的情況,你來(lái)講吧。”老板對(duì)教堂司事說(shuō),“你用德語(yǔ)介紹,別說(shuō)地方話。”
“牧師覺(jué)得這件事十分蹊蹺。”教堂司事說(shuō),“那個(gè)農(nóng)民在報(bào)告死訊時(shí),說(shuō)他的妻子死于心臟病。我們知道她心臟有毛病,有時(shí)候來(lái)教堂做禮拜還有昏厥的現(xiàn)象。有好長(zhǎng)一段時(shí)間她都沒(méi)有來(lái)過(guò)了,因?yàn)闆](méi)有力氣爬山。牧師揭開她臉上的毯子時(shí)問(wèn)奧爾茲:‘你老婆死得很痛苦吧?’‘不痛苦。’奧爾茲說(shuō),‘我一進(jìn)家門,就見(jiàn)她躺在床上與世長(zhǎng)辭了。’
“牧師看了看死者。他并不愿意看。
“‘她的臉怎么弄成這個(gè)樣子啦?’
“‘我不清楚。’奧爾茲回答說(shuō)。
“‘那你最好搞清楚再說(shuō)。’牧師說(shuō)著又把毯子蓋上了。奧爾茲一聲不吭。牧師望著他,他也望著牧師,說(shuō)道:‘你真的想知道嗎?’
“‘我必須知道。’牧師說(shuō)。”
“接下來(lái)就是謎底,”客棧老板說(shuō),“你們注意聽(tīng)。弗朗茲,你繼續(xù)講吧。”
“‘哦,’奧爾茲說(shuō),‘她死后,我向教區(qū)報(bào)告了死訊,接著就把她的尸體放在了柴火間里的一截粗大的木頭上。后來(lái)我要用那截木頭,而她已僵硬,于是我就把她靠墻放,讓她立在那兒。她的嘴大張著。夜里我到柴火間要劈開那截木頭,就把提燈掛在她的嘴上。’
“‘你為什么要那樣做?’牧師問(wèn)。
“‘我也不知道。’奧爾茲說(shuō)。
“‘這樣的事你干了很多次?’
“‘每次夜里去柴火間干活兒,我都這樣做。’
“‘真是罪過(guò)。’牧師說(shuō),‘你愛(ài)你的老婆嗎?’
“‘愛(ài),我愛(ài)她,’奧爾茲說(shuō),‘非常愛(ài)她。’”
“你們都聽(tīng)明白了嗎?”客棧老板問(wèn),“關(guān)于他妻子的情況你們都聽(tīng)明白了嗎?”
“聽(tīng)明白了。”
“該吃飯了吧?”約翰問(wèn)。
“你點(diǎn)菜吧。”我說(shuō)。“你覺(jué)得這事是真的嗎?”我問(wèn)客棧老板。
“千真萬(wàn)確。”他說(shuō),“這些農(nóng)民都是畜生。”
“他剛才到哪兒去了?”
“到我的同行洛溫旅館那兒喝酒去了唄!”
“他不愿跟我一起喝酒。”教堂司事說(shuō)。
“弗朗茲了解了他妻子的情況,他就不愿在這里喝酒了。”客棧老板說(shuō)。
“喂,”約翰說(shuō),“該吃飯了吧?”
“好吧。”我說(shuō)。
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