廚師下班后吃什么？

　　The Predawn Chowdown

　　廚師下班后吃什么?

　　After up to 10 hours of standing with virtually no breaks and no real nourishment, there are generally two options for a famished team of chefs, cooks, waiters, bussers, porters and everyone else it takes to run a restaurant.

　　在整整站了十個小時，沒有休息，沒有補充真正的營養(yǎng)之后，饑腸轆轆的大廚、廚師、服務(wù)員、碗碟收拾工、搬運工以及運營一個餐廳所需要的所有人通常有兩個選擇。

　　In Option 1, a cook on the line will whip up something fast and delicious — often a spicy pasta that people can eat out of plastic quart containers as they clean up their kitchen stations. This usually happens in places where the cooks can have a shift drink or two.

　　第一種選擇是打下手的廚師飛快地做一些簡便、好吃的飯菜，通常是辣意大利面，人們能在清理廚房里自己負責(zé)的區(qū)域時從塑料夸脫容器里取食。這種情況通常發(fā)生在廚師們能輪流休息并能在休息的時候喝上一兩杯的餐館。

　　In Option 2, which is usually the routine in places like mine, where the staff members are not permitted alcohol in the restaurant, everyone heads out in groups and congregates at another restaurant — usually one where cold beer is served. The most common choice is an inexpensive place in Chinatown or a Latin neighborhood, where service is quick and informal. Occasionally we head to a more traditional restaurant with a particular specialty, like sandwiches, pizza, Korean barbecue. I’ve noticed that kitchen workers always seem to like raw bars.

　　第二種選擇是我這種餐館的常見做法。因為不允許員工們在餐館里喝酒，所以我們下班后就成群結(jié)隊地去另一家餐館用餐——通常是供應(yīng)冰啤酒的餐館。最常見的選擇是中國城或拉丁裔區(qū)的一些便宜餐館，那里上菜快，服務(wù)比較隨便。我們偶爾會去一些專做某種食物的傳統(tǒng)餐館，比如三明治、披薩或韓國烤肉。我注意到廚房工作人員似乎總是喜歡生食吧。

　　The first order of business is the crucial component of, shall we say, rehydration. Thirst after a hot and sweaty shift is well earned and often slaked quickly and continuously till closing time with cold beer, sake or good-value wine. Keep in mind that often this rehydration is really the only thing on the chefs’ minds, depending on where the evening falls in the pay cycle. Sometimes the evening starts out as just drinking and continues that way into the early morning, when we end up at someone’s apartment and start preparing spicy dishes.

　　第一道菜是“水合作用”(我們可以這么說吧)的重要組成部分。在受著熱、流著汗上了一天班之后，口渴是自然的，通常能用冰啤酒、日本米酒或者性價比不錯的紅酒快速、持續(xù)緩解，直到打烊時間。要記住，通常這種水合作用是大廚們腦子里唯一惦記的事，它取決于當晚處于發(fā)薪周期的哪個階段。有時，某個晚上一上來就是喝酒，一直喝到凌晨，發(fā)現(xiàn)我們躺在某個人家里，然后開始烹制辣味食物。

　　Cooks and chefs rarely tire of cooking, and making dinner for friends on a day off, or making a late-night snack for a couple of co-workers, is often a pleasure and never a task. But when you’re starting dinner after midnight, it’s best to keep things uncomplicated. These — penne all’arrabbiata, spicy shrimp sauté and spicy 3-minute calamari — are some of my late-night favorites.

　　廚師和大廚很少厭倦烹飪，在休息日為朋友做頓大餐，或者在深夜為幾個同事做點小吃通常是一種樂趣，而不是任務(wù)。但是如果你在午夜之后開始烹飪，最好不要做太復(fù)雜的。我深夜愛吃的食物有辣番茄醬通心粉、嫩煎辣蝦和三分鐘快煎辣魷魚。

　　Recepe:

　　食譜：

　　1.Penne all’Arrabbiata

　　1. 辣番茄醬通心粉

　　INGREDIENTS

　　配料：

　　3 tablespoons kosher salt

　　3湯匙粗鹽

　　4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus 4 more tablespoons

　　4湯匙特級初榨橄欖油，同樣的油另備4湯匙

　　1/2 cup tomato paste

　　1/2杯番茄醬

　　1 tablespoon hot red-pepper flakes

　　1湯匙紅辣椒片

　　1 1/2 cups chopped tomatoes, like Pomì

　　1.5杯切碎的番茄

　　1 pound penne

　　1磅通心粉

　　Maldon or other flaky sea salt

　　莫爾登(Maldon)牌海鹽或其他薄片狀海鹽

　　Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano for serving.

　　現(xiàn)磨的帕爾馬干酪供上菜用。

　　PREPARATION

　　制作方法：

　　1. Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot, and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt.

　　1. 在大鍋中加入6夸脫水，燒開，加入3湯匙粗鹽。

　　2. Meanwhile, put 4 tablespoons olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat, and then add the tomato paste and pepper flakes; reduce the heat to low and stir just until fragrant, about 4 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, and remove from the heat.

　　2. 同時，在大煎鍋中加入4湯匙橄欖油，用中火加熱，然后加入番茄醬和辣椒片。把火力調(diào)到小火，攪拌直到散發(fā)出香味，約需4分鐘。攪入番茄塊，從火上移開。

　　3. Drop the pasta into the boiling water, and cook until al dente. Drain the pasta, reserving 1/4 cup of the pasta water.

　　3. 把通心粉放入煮沸的水中，煮到有嚼勁。把通心粉空干，保留1/4杯面湯。

　　4. Add the pasta and the reserved pasta water to the tomato sauce, stir and toss over medium heat until the pasta is well coated. Season with salt if necessary, then add the remaining oil, tossing well. Serve immediately, with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano on the side.

　　4. 把通心粉和面湯加入番茄醬中，用中火攪拌，直到通心粉完全裹上番茄醬。需要的話加點鹽調(diào)味，然后把剩下的油倒入，攪拌均勻。即刻上桌，旁邊擺上帕爾馬干酪。

　　YIELD

　　份量：

　　Serves 6

　　6人份。

　　2. Spicy Shrimp Sauté

　　2. 嫩煎辣蝦

　　INGREDIENTS

　　配料：

　　2 tablespoons red curry paste

　　2湯匙紅咖喱醬

　　1/4 cup fish sauce

　　1/4杯魚露

　　1/4 cup sambal

　　1/4杯參巴辣醬

　　1/4 cup sweet chili sauce

　　1/4杯甜辣醬

　　2 pounds medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

　　2磅中等個頭的蝦，去皮、去腸

　　3 tablespoons light sesame oil

　　3湯匙淡芝麻油

　　1 cup sliced scallions

　　1杯切成絲的大蔥

　　2 tablespoons sweet soy sauce

　　2湯匙甜醬油

　　1(14-ounce) can light coconut milk

　　1罐(14盎司)淡椰奶

　　1 bunch cilantro, chopped.

　　1把芫荽，切碎。

　　PREPARATION

　　制作方法

　　1. Combine curry paste, fish sauce, sambal and chili sauce in a medium bowl; add shrimp, tossing to coat. Place a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add oil, and heat till smoking then add the shrimp mixture, and sauté for 2 minutes. Add scallions; cover, and cook for 3 minutes. Stir in soy sauce and coconut milk. Cook for 3 minutes or until thoroughly heated. Add cilantro and serve.

　　1. 在一個中號碗中，把咖喱醬、魚露、參巴辣醬和甜辣醬攪拌到一起，加入蝦，攪拌至蝦都裹上醬。把一個大的不粘煎鍋放到中火上加熱。加入油，加熱至油冒煙，然后加入蝦混合物，煎2分鐘。加入大蔥，蓋上蓋子，煎3分鐘。攪入醬油和椰奶。再煎3分鐘，直至完全加熱。加入芫荽，上桌。

　　YIELD

　　份量：

　　Serves 4

　　4人份。

　　3. Spicy 3-Minute Calamari

　　3. 三分鐘快煎辣魷魚

　　INGREDIENTS

　　配料：

　　1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

　　1/4杯特級初榨橄欖油，另備一些供淋灑

　　2 tablespoons pine nuts

　　2湯匙松仁

　　2 tablespoons currants

　　2湯匙加侖子

　　1/4 cup caperberries

　　1/4杯刺山柑果

　　4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

　　4瓣大蒜，切成薄片

　　1 tablespoon hot red-pepper flakes

　　1湯匙紅辣椒片

　　1 cup basic tomato sauce

　　1杯原味番茄醬

　　1 1/2 pounds cleaned calamari, tubes cut into 1/4-inch rounds, tentacles halved

　　1.5磅洗凈的魷魚，管狀部分切成1/4英寸寬的圓圈，觸須切成兩半

　　8 scallions, thinly sliced (reserve some for garnish)

　　8根大蔥，切成細絲(留一些裝飾用)

　　Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.

　　粗鹽和現(xiàn)磨黑胡椒。

　　PREPARATION

　　制作方法：

　　1. Heat 1/4 cup oil in a large sauté pan until just smoking. Sauté the pine nuts, currants, caperberries, garlic and red-pepper flakes until the pine nuts are golden brown, about 2 minutes. Add the tomato sauce, and bring to a simmer. Stir in the calamari, mix well and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, or until the calamari is just cooked and completely opaque. Toss in the scallions, and season with salt and pepper. Pour into a large, warm bowl, sprinkle with the reserved scallions, drizzle with olive oil, and serve immediately.

　　在大煎鍋里加入1/4杯油，加熱至微微冒煙。把松仁、加侖子、刺山柑果、大蒜和紅辣椒片煎至松仁變成金黃，約需2分鐘。加入番茄醬，加熱至微微沸騰。攪入魷魚，攪拌均勻，小火煎兩三分鐘，或煎至魷魚剛剛熟透，完全不透明。放入蔥絲，再加點鹽和黑胡椒調(diào)味。倒入溫過的大碗中，撒上備好的蔥絲，滴上一點橄欖油，即刻上桌。

　　YIELD

　　份量：

　　Serves 4

　　4人份。