讓我?guī)?6小時(shí)玩轉(zhuǎn)北京

It seems like only yesterday that Beijing had itsmuch-ballyhooed “coming out” party — the 2008Summer Olympics — but things don’t slow downmuch in China’s frenetic capital. Already, the city iseyeing another Olympics bid (it’s one of two finalistsfor the 2022 Winter Games) and planning a $13billion airport that is expected to be among thebusiest in the world when it opens in 2019. And yetcompared with China’s other vertical megacities,Beijing is still a traditionalist at heart. The city mayhave fantastic new sculptural monuments designedby Zaha Hadid and Rem Koolhaas, but to truly understand Beijing, one has to delve into theremaining hutong neighborhoods — traditional alleyways lined with courtyard homes — andsmell the sweet potatoes roasting on coal fires in the winter.

喧鬧一時(shí)的2008年夏季奧運(yùn)會(huì)堪稱北京的“登場(chǎng)派對(duì)”, 令人記憶猶新，其后，中國(guó)狂熱的都城亦未曾放慢步伐。這座城市已在進(jìn)行另一場(chǎng)奧運(yùn)會(huì)申辦(它是2022年冬季奧運(yùn)會(huì)的兩個(gè)終選城市之一)，計(jì)劃投入130億美元修建新機(jī)場(chǎng)，2019年建成后預(yù)計(jì)會(huì)成為世界上最繁忙的機(jī)場(chǎng)之一。不過(guò)與其他高樓聳立的中國(guó)大城市相比，北京從本質(zhì)上仍是傳統(tǒng)的。這座城市雖然擁有扎哈·哈迪德(Zaha Hadid)和雷姆·庫(kù)哈斯(Rem Koolhaas)等建筑師設(shè)計(jì)的充滿想象力和雕刻感的新大樓，但是要想真正理解它，就必須一頭鉆進(jìn)留存下來(lái)的胡同里，在這些兩邊都是四合院的古老小巷里，聞一聞冬日路邊碳烤紅薯的香味。

 

 

1. Beads and Incense | 4 p.m.

1. 佛珠和香火 | 下午4點(diǎn)

In the new Beijing of star-architect towers and gleaming Porsches, the Lama Temple (alsoknown as Yonghe Temple) stands as a reminder of a less material and more spiritual time.Built as a prince’s home in the 17th century, the complex was gradually transformed into alamasery and is today one of the most active — and colorful — Buddhist temples in the city.Beijingers pray amid gnarled pine trees with burning joss sticks held aloft and shopping bagsslung over wrists, while monks offer quiet blessings of beads brought by visitors in hiddencorners. Outside the lovely gingko-lined entrance are shops crammed with Buddhist trinketsand incense, the sounds of Tibetan music floating down the street. Admission is 25 renminbi,or about $4 at the rate of 6 renminbi to the dollar.

在充滿明星建筑師設(shè)計(jì)的大樓和閃亮保時(shí)捷的新北京，雍和宮讓我們想起那個(gè)不那么物質(zhì)、更注重精神的時(shí)代。這個(gè)建筑群建于17世紀(jì)，最初是一位皇子的宅邸，后來(lái)逐步改建成一座喇嘛廟，如今它是北京香火最旺、最華美的佛寺之一。北京人在長(zhǎng)滿節(jié)瘤的松樹(shù)間祈禱，高舉著點(diǎn)燃的香，手腕上掛著購(gòu)物袋;在隱蔽的角落里，僧人們?yōu)橛慰蛶?lái)的佛珠開(kāi)光。入口兩側(cè)種著秀美的銀杏樹(shù)，門外有很多店鋪，里面擺滿佛教用品和香，藏族樂(lè)曲在街上飄蕩。門票25元，按照1美元兌換6元人民幣的匯率計(jì)算，約合4美元。

2. Beijing Brews | 6 p.m.

2. 北京精釀啤酒 | 下午6點(diǎn)

The traditional hutongs around the Lama Temple are a fantastic place to soak up Beijingstreet life. Avoid overly gentrified Nanluoguxiang, a crowded strip of T-shirt and snack shops,and head instead to the maze of alleys around quieter Baochao Hutong to the west. Here, localsgather for nightly mah-jongg games and sip beer at dumpling shops beneath gray-tiledrooftops sprouting tufts of grass. Grab a pint yourself in the tree-shaded courtyard at GreatLeap Brewing, a pioneer in Beijing’s craft beer scene that makes unique ales like Iron BuddhaBlonde, infused with tea from the mountains of Fujian province (40 renminbi). Continue thehutong pub crawl at nearby Slow Boat Brewery Taproom, which was opened a little over twoyears ago by a pair of Americans and has more than a dozen unpasteurized beers on tap, suchas Helmsman’s Honey Ale (40 renminbi) brewed with honey from local bee farms.

雍和宮附近的老胡同是感受北京街頭生活的絕佳去處。不要去改造一新的南鑼鼓巷，那條狹長(zhǎng)的街道異常擁擠，兩旁大多是T恤店和小吃店。還是去西邊更安靜的寶鈔胡同吧，附近的胡同如迷宮一般。本地人晚上聚在一起打麻將，在餃子店里喝啤酒，屋頂?shù)幕彝呱祥L(zhǎng)著一簇簇青草。不妨在大躍啤酒屋綠樹(shù)成蔭的院子里喝上一杯啤酒。此處堪稱北京精釀啤酒界的先鋒，釀制獨(dú)特的麥芽啤酒，比如加入福建武夷山鐵觀音的金色鐵觀音啤酒(40元)。繼續(xù)胡同酒吧漫步，便可來(lái)到附近的悠航鮮啤屋，它是一對(duì)美國(guó)夫婦兩年前開(kāi)的，供應(yīng)十幾種未經(jīng)高溫消毒的桶裝啤酒，比如用當(dāng)?shù)仞B(yǎng)蜂場(chǎng)的蜂蜜釀制的舵手悠航蜜釀(40元)。

3. The Spice Is Right | 8 p.m.

3. 這里的辣味最正宗 | 晚上8點(diǎn)

It’s brightly lit and raucous and if you come too late, the indifferent servers may beginstacking chairs around you as you finish your meal. Beijing may have more refined Sichuanrestaurants these days, but Chuan Ban has retained a loyal following among locals because ofits authentically mouth-numbing food — to be expected of a restaurant run by the Sichuanprovincial government. The novel-length menu contains some perplexing dishes like SpicyDuck Lips, but there are safer standouts like mapo doufu (cubes of tofu swimming in crimsonchile oil and smothered in ground Sichuan peppercorns; 18 renminbi) and stir-fried shrimp ballsheaped with ground pork, preserved vegetables and diced chiles (78 renminbi).

這里燈光明亮，人聲鼎沸。如果你來(lái)得太晚，沒(méi)等你吃完，冷漠的服務(wù)員可能已經(jīng)開(kāi)始收拾周圍的桌椅。如今，北京可能有更精致的川菜館，但是川辦仍在當(dāng)?shù)厝酥袚碛兄覍?shí)擁躉，因?yàn)檫@里是四川省政府經(jīng)營(yíng)的餐館，人們有理由期待它提供最正宗的麻辣食物 。超長(zhǎng)的菜單上有一些令人迷惑的菜肴，比如香辣鴨唇，但也有一些更安全的美味，比如麻婆豆腐(豆腐塊浸泡在深紅色辣椒油和四川豆瓣醬里;18元)和芽菜炒蝦球(78元)。

4. Gentle Gentrification | 11 a.m.

4. 溫和的改造 | 上午11點(diǎn)

While many of Beijing’s hutongs have been demolished over the years, others have been leveledand replaced with prettified versions of their former selves, turning neighborhoods into themeparks. The Dashilar neighborhood, one of the oldest in Beijing, is following a different path, witharchitects and designers leading a more sustainable gentrification process to try to retain thefabric of the community. One former factory in a 1950s Art Deco building has beengorgeously renovated into a cafe, Spoonful of Sugar, that serves organic coffee from Yunnanprovince and chocolates infused with fiery Chinese er guo tou liquor. Down the lane, check outthe Ubi Gallery for handmade designer jewelry and Chinese ceramics, and the Li+U Workshopfor handsome leather bags and wallets, made right there in the store.

經(jīng)過(guò)這么多年，北京的很多胡同都被拆除了，還有些胡同被拆除后，在原址上蓋起了新的美化版，附近區(qū)域也變成了主題公園。大柵欄是北京最古老的區(qū)域之一，它的改造模式與眾不同，建筑師和設(shè)計(jì)師們主導(dǎo)著更具可持續(xù)性的改造過(guò)程，努力保持社區(qū)的質(zhì)感。壹勺子糖咖啡館由一座20世紀(jì)50年代裝飾藝術(shù)風(fēng)格的建筑改造而來(lái)，這里本來(lái)是個(gè)工廠。這家咖啡館供應(yīng)云南有機(jī)咖啡和加入濃烈二鍋頭的巧克力。沿著胡同，你能找到Ubi藝?yán)?Ubi Gallery)，這里有手工制作的高檔珠寶和中國(guó)瓷器，還有Li+U工坊(Li+U Workshop)，這里的漂亮皮包和錢夾都是在店里制作的。

5. Fit for a King | 1 p.m.

5. 炸醬面大王 | 下午1點(diǎn)

As the name suggests, Old Beijing Zhajiang Noodle King does one thing really well: zha jiangmian, a hand-pulled wheat noodle dish that’s just as evocative of Beijing as roast duck orhearty dumplings. So popular is this local chain that the lunch rush can feel manic: Waitersdash up and down stairs shouting orders and numbers of guests, while diners crowd aroundwooden tables slurping bowls of noodles topped with shredded cucumber and radish, beansprouts and a tangy sauce made with minced pork and fermented soybean paste. It’s not onlytasty, but lunch for two will set you back only 36 renminbi.

店如其名，老北京炸醬面大王的炸醬面真的很棒。炸醬面是一種手工面條，和烤鴨、營(yíng)養(yǎng)豐富的餃子一樣，也是北京的標(biāo)志性食物。這個(gè)連鎖店的生意太好了，午餐時(shí)分的場(chǎng)面簡(jiǎn)直有點(diǎn)瘋狂：服務(wù)員在樓梯上跑上跑下，大喊客人的訂餐和編號(hào)，食客們擠在木桌子邊狼吞虎咽，面條上放著黃瓜條、蘿卜絲、豆芽，以及用肉丁和甜面醬做的濃香肉醬。它不僅美味，而且便宜——兩個(gè)人吃一頓午餐只需36元。

6. Suburban Cool | 3 p.m.

6. 郊區(qū)的藝術(shù)酷地 | 下午3點(diǎn)

The sprawling 798 Art District is still the hub of Beijing’s contemporary art scene, althoughthe last decade has brought commercialization in the way of souvenir shops, boutiques andcafes, distracting from the galleries. Head farther afield — literally in the dusty suburbs beyondthe Fifth Ring Road — to see experimental art in less-crowded spaces. Designed by theprovocative Chinese artist Ai Weiwei, the Three Shadows Photography Art Center, a stark,gray brick and concrete space, is said to be the first gallery in China devoted to photography,exhibiting works that, at times, explore the grittier side of modern Chinese life (freeadmission). At the new Red Brick Art Museum, near an outlet mall in the countryside, the focusis on video and installation works — think of charred New Zealand milk cartons as a commenton China’s food safety concerns — though the real draw may be the tranquil Chinese gardenand angular, modernist red brick building itself (20 renminbi).

不斷擴(kuò)張的798藝術(shù)區(qū)仍是北京當(dāng)代藝術(shù)圖景的中心，不過(guò)，過(guò)去十年的商業(yè)化讓這里出現(xiàn)了很多紀(jì)念品店、服裝精品店和咖啡館，它們搶走了畫(huà)廊的一些風(fēng)頭。往郊外走，一直走到五環(huán)外塵土飛揚(yáng)的郊區(qū)，去不那么擁擠的展覽空間看看實(shí)驗(yàn)藝術(shù)。三影堂攝影藝術(shù)中心由容易引發(fā)爭(zhēng)議的中國(guó)藝術(shù)家艾未未設(shè)計(jì)，它是一個(gè)樸實(shí)的灰磚混凝土建筑，據(jù)說(shuō)是中國(guó)第一個(gè)專門的攝影作品畫(huà)廊，有時(shí)會(huì)展示探索現(xiàn)代中國(guó)生活現(xiàn)實(shí)一面的照片(免費(fèi)參觀)。新開(kāi)的紅磚美術(shù)館靠近郊區(qū)的一個(gè)名牌折扣購(gòu)物中心，它專注于視頻和裝置作品——燒焦的新西蘭牛奶紙盒代表著對(duì)中國(guó)食品安全的擔(dān)憂——不過(guò)也許真正吸引人的是安靜的中式花園和棱角分明的現(xiàn)代主義紅磚建筑本身(20元)。

7. Duck Dressed Up | 8 p.m.

7. 精心制作的烤鴨 | 晚上8點(diǎn)

Duck devotees face a tough choice in Beijing — with so much kao ya (roast duck) to choosefrom, how to pick the right place? Duck de Chine succeeds in elevating the dish to a higherplane. Set in a renovated factory with exposed beams and elegant red lanterns, this is thekind of place that has Bollinger on ice and a gong to announce the arrival of your bird. There’seven an art to preparing the duck: First, it’s crisped in an oven with date wood to enhance theflavor, then carved tableside and wrapped expertly in a pancake with a swirl of house-made tianmian jiang (sweet bean sauce) and radish, celery and leek slivers. Fortunately, the highproduction value doesn’t come with steep prices — a whole duck costs just 268 renminbi.Reservations are a must for a table and duck; it takes over an hour to cook.

烤鴨愛(ài)好者在北京面臨著一個(gè)艱難的選擇——有太多做烤鴨的餐館，怎樣才能找到合適的呢?全鴨季成功地把這道菜提升到了更高水平。店鋪由工廠改造而來(lái)，房梁露在外面，懸掛著優(yōu)雅的紅燈籠，這里供應(yīng)冰鎮(zhèn)堡林爵香檳(Bollinger)，上菜時(shí)會(huì)敲一下鑼。在這里，做烤鴨簡(jiǎn)直是一種藝術(shù)：首先將鴨子放在爐中，用棗木將皮烤脆，以增進(jìn)其風(fēng)味;然后在餐桌邊切開(kāi)鴨肉，將其和自制甜面醬、蘿卜絲、芹菜絲、蔥絲一起卷入薄餅。幸運(yùn)的是，這里堪稱物美價(jià)廉——一整只烤鴨才268元。必須提前預(yù)約才能訂到桌位和烤鴨。要花一個(gè)多小時(shí)才能烤好。

8. Hutong Hooch | 10 p.m.

8. 胡同烈酒 | 晚上10點(diǎn)

Before a government-enforced austerity drive killed all the fun, banquets in China used to beriotous affairs fueled by copious shots of the blinding grain alcohol baijiu. With baijiu producersnow seeking new markets, the liquor has moved from the banquet table to the low-lit cocktailbar. At Capital Spirits, a hutong speakeasy with antique wooden furniture and no sign on thedoor, a mostly young crowd sips shot glasses of the rocket fuel from a menu that varies bystrength (from the lighter, rice-based Guilin Sanhua to the 106-proof Maotai Prince) and flavor(the bar infuses its own pomegranate, garlic and Sichuan peppercorn baijius.) An “intro flight”of four types is 40 renminbi. The ultimate challenge is the intimidating Five Snake Liquor (20renminbi per glass) — a baijiu containing, yes, five dead snakes that’s supposedly good forarthritis and male virility.

在政府厲行節(jié)儉、扼殺樂(lè)趣之前，中國(guó)的宴會(huì)一度是杯籌交錯(cuò)的場(chǎng)合，一杯杯烈性白酒穿腸而過(guò)?，F(xiàn)在白酒廠家正在尋找新市場(chǎng)，白酒離開(kāi)宴會(huì)桌邊，來(lái)到燈光昏暗的雞尾酒吧。首都酒坊是胡同里的一個(gè)地下酒吧，里面擺著復(fù)古木家具，門上沒(méi)有招牌。顧客大多是年輕人，他們用小酒杯一杯接一杯地啜飲這種烈酒。這里的菜單按照酒精度數(shù)(從度數(shù)較低的米香型桂林三花酒到53度茅臺(tái)王子酒)和口味(這家酒吧自己釀制了一種含有石榴、大蒜和花椒的白酒)分類。“入門組”包含四種酒，價(jià)格是40元。終極挑戰(zhàn)是嚇人的五蛇酒(20元一杯)——沒(méi)錯(cuò)，這種白酒里泡有五種死蛇，據(jù)說(shuō)能壯陽(yáng)，治療關(guān)節(jié)炎。

9. Parks and Recreation | 8 a.m.

9. 公園和消遣 | 上午8點(diǎn)

The Forbidden City, the former imperial palace at the center of Beijing, can feel overwhelmingwith the sheer number of courtyards and rooms, not to mention the pushy tourists. A farmore peaceful alternative on the weekend is the imperial family’s former country escape, theSummer Palace (30 renminbi admission). Yes, the park gets its fair share of tour groups andJazzercising grannies, but it’s easy to ditch the crowds by hiking the pine-shaded hill behindthe palace and taking in the view of the lake below. As you wander, follow the sounds ofmusic; you might find a choir of hundreds in their Sunday finest belting out patrioticCommunist tunes with a brass band, or a Peking Opera soloist performing in a pagoda for anaudience of one.

提到北京市中心的故宮，光是想想眾多院落和房間就讓人望而生畏，更別提推來(lái)擠去的游客。周末，還不如去舊時(shí)的皇家別墅——頤和園(門票30元)，這里要安靜得多。是的，這個(gè)公園也有不少旅游團(tuán)和跳廣場(chǎng)舞的大媽，但是你可以躲開(kāi)人群，到宮殿后面松柏成蔭的小山上漫步，一覽山腳下的湖景。漫步時(shí)，跟隨音樂(lè)的聲音，你也許能找到幾百人的合唱團(tuán)，他們身著周末盛裝，在銅管樂(lè)隊(duì)的伴奏下高唱共產(chǎn)主義愛(ài)國(guó)歌曲，或者你能在寶塔里找到京劇獨(dú)唱者，做此人唯一的聽(tīng)眾。

10. Designer Dumplings | 1 p.m.

10. 高檔餃子 | 下午1點(diǎn)

The Opposite House hotel, with its green glass facade and soaring atrium draped in steel mesh,exemplifies the bold new architectural aesthetic taking root in Beijing. While staying at thehotel might be pricey (rooms start at 1,850 renminbi per night), the dim sum menu at Jing YaaTang restaurant (118 renminbi per person) is a real bargain. Feast on fluffy barbecued porkbuns, pan-fried turnip cakes and homemade walnut milk (it tastes like a sweet soup) and thentake in the Japanese architect Kego Kuma’s futuristic design in the lobby-cum-gallery space.The showstopper is a 19-foot-tall, 5,000-plus-drawer modern take on a traditionalapothecary cabinet — a fitting symbol of how the traditional continues to influence the new ina city with thousands of years of history.

瑜舍酒店的正面是綠色玻璃幕墻，高高的中庭里懸掛著鋼絲網(wǎng)，這表明大膽的新建筑審美正在北京扎根。在這家酒店住店可能過(guò)于昂貴(一晚房?jī)r(jià)1850元起)，但是京雅堂的點(diǎn)心自助餐很是超值(每位118元)。先盡情享用松軟的叉燒包、煎蘿卜糕和自制核桃露(喝起來(lái)像甜湯)，然后在兼作畫(huà)廊的大堂里欣賞日本建筑師隈研吾的未來(lái)主義設(shè)計(jì)。最精彩的是一個(gè)有5000多個(gè)抽屜的19英尺高現(xiàn)代版中藥柜——這恰好說(shuō)明，傳統(tǒng)仍在影響這座有幾千年歷史的城市。

Beijing saw a plethora of new hotels open for the 2008 Summer Olympics, so finding gooddeals is possible even in the peak travel times in the spring and fall.

為了迎接2008年夏季奧運(yùn)會(huì)，北京修建了太多新酒店，所以即使在春秋旅游旺季也有可能找到劃算的房間。

The 222-room Fairmont Beijing, opened in 2010, has excellent English-speaking service and isconveniently located a short taxi ride from the Forbidden City, Sanlitun and the Temple ofHeaven. The top-of-the-line Gold Rooms offer great views from the skybridge on the 20th floorand 24-karat-gold rain showerheads. (8 Yong’an DongliCQ, fairmont.com/beijing; doubles from1,250 renminbi)

2010年開(kāi)業(yè)的華彬費(fèi)爾蒙酒店有222個(gè)房間，提供很好的英語(yǔ)服務(wù)，地理位置優(yōu)越，離故宮、三里屯和天壇都不太遠(yuǎn)。頂級(jí)金尊房可以讓你在20層的天橋上欣賞極佳景觀，蓮蓬頭是24K金的(永安東里，fairmont.com/beijing;雙人房1250元)。

Set in a former factory inside the 798 Arts District, the 30-room Grace Hotel has more of aboutique feel, with a glass of sparkling wine at check-in, rooms with high ceilings and woodenfloors, and brightly colored artworks on the walls. (Jiuxianqiao Lu, 2 Hao Yuan, 798 Art District, 706 Hou Jie, No. 1, gracehotels.com; from 792 renminbi).

格瑞斯酒店在798藝術(shù)區(qū)，由工廠改造而來(lái)，有30個(gè)房間。它更具一種精品酒店的感覺(jué)，入住時(shí)給你奉上一杯起泡酒，房間的天花板很高，有木地板，墻上掛著顏色鮮艷的藝術(shù)品(酒仙橋路2號(hào)院798藝術(shù)區(qū)706后街1號(hào)，gracehotels.com;792元起)。