未來的衣服設(shè)計致力于減少碳足跡

未來的衣服設(shè)計致力于減少碳足跡

Canadian-Iranian designer Roya Aghighi wants you to imagine that your shirt is alive.

加拿大籍伊朗設(shè)計師羅亞阿格海伊希望你想象你的襯衫是有活性的。

Far from dreaming up a horror movie script, Aghighi hopes we can develop a more intimate relationship with fashion -- by treating clothes as living beings that need our help to survive.

阿格海伊希望我們能與時尚發(fā)展出更親密的關(guān)系，而不是想象出恐怖電影的劇本——把衣服當成需要我們幫助才能生存的生物。

"You're not going to throw your clothes in the corner of your closet or into the washing machine," she said over the phone from Vancouver. "It's immediately going to shift the way you think about your clothing."

“你不會把你的衣服扔到衣柜的角落里或洗衣機里，”她從溫哥華打來電話說。“它會立刻改變你對衣服的看法。”

Aghighi's thought experiment isn't as far-fetched as it might seem.

阿格海伊的思維實驗并不像它看起來那么牽強。

Working with a group of scientists at the University of British Columbia (UBC), she has invented a living, biodegradable fabric named Biogarmentry. Made from algae, the biofabricated textile photosynthesizes, which purifies the air around it.

她與英屬哥倫比亞大學(xué)(UBC)的一組科學(xué)家合作，發(fā)明了一種活的、可生物降解的織物，名為Biogarmentry。由藻類制成的生物降解紡織品進行光合作用，從而凈化周圍的空氣。

UBC claims it's the first living and photosynthesizing textile, and has fashioned the material into a sheer, cloak-like garment. While prototypes like these are still in the early stages of research and design, and far from mass production, they challenge the fashion industry to reimagine ways it can reduce its colossal carbon footprint through alternative fabrics.

UBC聲稱這是第一種有生命的、可進行光合作用的紡織品，并將這種材料制成了一種透明的、類似斗篷的服裝。雖然像這樣的原型還處于研究和設(shè)計的早期階段，而

Fashion is one of the world's most polluting industries. It's responsible for more carbon emissions than international flights and shipping combined, amounting to 10% of all greenhouse gasses emitted globally, according to figures from the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP).

時尚業(yè)是世界上污染最嚴重的行業(yè)之一。根據(jù)聯(lián)合國環(huán)境規(guī)劃署(UNEP)的數(shù)據(jù)，它的碳排放量比國際航班和航運加起來還要多，占全球溫室氣體排放總量的10%。

US consumers are buying more garments than ever, wearing each item fewer times and sending almost 70% of the clothes and footwear produced each year to landfill, according to the US Environmental Protection Agency.

根據(jù)美國環(huán)境保護署的數(shù)據(jù)，美國消費者購買的服裝比以往任何時候都多，每件衣服穿的次數(shù)都減少了，每年生產(chǎn)的服裝和鞋類中有近70%被送往垃圾填埋場。

Changing our relationship with clothing, from one of neglectful fast-fashion consumption to an empathetic connection, is one of Aghighi's main drivers.

阿格海伊的主要驅(qū)動力之一是，改變我們與服裝的關(guān)系，從一種漫不經(jīng)心的快速時尚消費，轉(zhuǎn)變?yōu)橐环N有同理心的聯(lián)系。

Her innovative garment is now only at the proof-of-concept stage. With sunlight and a spray of water, its single-cell chlamydomonas reinhardtii algae come to life.

她的創(chuàng)新服裝目前只處于概念驗證階段。在陽光和水霧的照射下，它的單細胞萊茵衣藻開始活躍起來。

Aghighi predicts consumption habits will take a long time to change. "It is going to be a slow shift," she said.

阿格海伊預(yù)計，消費習(xí)慣需要很長時間才能改變。“這將是一個緩慢的轉(zhuǎn)變，”她說。

The crops traditionally used to make clothing, from cotton to hemp, absorb carbon as they grow.

傳統(tǒng)上用來做衣服的作物，從棉花到大麻，在生長過程中吸收碳。

But end-to-end, most natural materials are still carbon emitters, says New York-based designer Charlotte McCurdy, a fellow at Rhode Island School of Design.

但從整體上看，大多數(shù)天然材料仍然是碳排放源，羅德島設(shè)計學(xué)院的研究員、紐約設(shè)計師夏洛特·麥柯迪說。

Take a single T-shirt made of cotton, the world's most commonly used natural fiber, as an example.

以一件棉質(zhì)T恤為例，棉質(zhì)是世界上最常用的天然纖維。

The estimated footprint of a cotton shirt over its lifetime is 15 kilograms (33 pounds) of carbon dioxide, with most of that emitted during the energy-intensive production and dyeing processes.

一件棉質(zhì)襯衫的使用壽命估計會產(chǎn)生15公斤(33磅)的二氧化碳，其中大部分是在能源密集型生產(chǎn)和染色過程中排放的。

In recent years, environmental startups have proposed a number of alternative natural fibers, from beechwood made into cashmere-like beachwear to cactus leather.

近年來，環(huán)保初創(chuàng)企業(yè)提出了許多可替代的天然纖維，從可制成羊絨海灘服的山毛櫸到仙人掌皮。

Many of these have the potential to sequester carbon but none have been shown to achieve net-zero emissions over the lifecycle of a garment, especially when washing and drying clothes significantly add to their overall footprint.

其中許多都有吸收碳的潛力，但沒有一種能在一件衣服的整個生命周期內(nèi)實現(xiàn)凈零排放，尤其是在洗滌和烘干會顯著增加其總體碳足跡的情況下。