揮別炮火與敵意，金門接受中國大陸示好

KINMEN COUNTY, Taiwan — The islands of Kinmen County, and the Nationalist troops stationed there, withstood artillery shelling from China long after the Communist victory in the Chinese civil war.

臺灣金門縣——在共產(chǎn)黨取得了中國內(nèi)戰(zhàn)勝利后的很長時間里，金門縣的島嶼和駐扎在那里的國民黨軍隊經(jīng)受住了來自中國的炮擊。

Today, relations between China and Kinmen, just miles apart, are very different indeed.

中國和金門相隔僅數(shù)英里，今天，它們之間的關(guān)系確實非常不同了。

Kinmen, about twice the size of Manhattan, has been governed from Taiwan since the defeated Nationalists fled China for the islands in 1949. But Taiwan’s main island is 140 miles away, while China looms visibly in the near distance. That distance is narrowing — both literally and figuratively.

金門的面積大約是曼哈頓的兩倍，自1949年被擊敗的國民黨逃離中國以來，這里的島嶼一直由臺灣統(tǒng)治。但臺灣主島距它有140英里(約合225公里)，而中國卻近在眼前。如今這個距離還在縮小——無論是從字面意義還是從比喻的意義來說。

A new airport for the Chinese city of Xiamen is being built just north of Kinmen, on an island three miles away, and land reclamation for that project will bring Chinese territory almost a mile closer.

中國城市廈門正在金門以北3英里(約合4.8公里)的一座島上修建新機場，這個項目填海造地將使中國同金門的距離縮短至1英里(約合1.6公里)。

A proposed bridge to the Xiamen airport from Kinmen would essentially eliminate the remaining gap. Last month, China began supplying Kinmen with drinking water through a new 10-mile pipeline. And Kinmen will probably soon get cheaper electricity from its onetime enemy.

擬建的從金門通往廈門機場的大橋?qū)母旧舷Ｓ嗟木嚯x。上個月，中國開始通過新修建的10英里(約合16公里)管道向金門供水。金門還可能很快會從其曾經(jīng)的敵人那里獲得更便宜的電力。

The Aug. 5 ceremony to open the pipeline underscored how much Kinmen, home to about 130,000 people, has been pulled into the orbit of China, whose ruling Communist Party has never controlled Taiwan and wants to annex it.

8月5日，新供水管道的開通儀式表明，大約有13萬人居住的金門已被拉入中國的軌道;中國執(zhí)政的共產(chǎn)黨從未控制過臺灣，并且希望吞并臺灣。

Liu Jieyi, the director of Beijing’s Taiwan Affairs Office, used his speech at the ceremony on the island to demand that self-governing, democratic Taiwan accept the “One China” policy, which declares that Taiwan and China are part of the same country.

北京的臺灣事務(wù)辦公室主任劉結(jié)一在該島舉行的儀式上發(fā)表講話時，要求自治、民主的臺灣接受“一個中國”的政策，即臺灣和中國屬于同一個國家。

“The vast populace of Taiwan will certainly make the correct choice,” Mr. Liu said.

“廣大臺灣民眾一定會做出正確的抉擇，”劉結(jié)一說。

He almost certainly wouldn’t have made such a speech on Taiwan’s main island, where suspicion of China runs high. When Mr. Liu’s predecessor toured Taiwan in 2014, he was met with protests in multiple cities and his car was splashed with paint.

幾乎可以肯定，他無法在臺灣主島上發(fā)表這樣的講話，那里對中國猜疑的情緒正在高漲。劉結(jié)一的前任于2014年訪問臺灣時，在多個城市遭到抗議，車上被潑了油漆。

Wang Ting-yu, a Taiwanese lawmaker with the Democratic Progressive Party, said the freedom and democracy enjoyed in Kinmen made it unlikely that its residents would want to be part of authoritarian China. But he said China’s ruling Communist Party had had some success on the island with so-called United Front tactics, under which it works with non-Communist groups to achieve its goals.

臺灣的民進黨立法委員王定宇表示，金門享有自由民主，因此居民不太可能愿意成為威權(quán)主義中國的一部分。但他表示，中國執(zhí)政的共產(chǎn)黨在該島采取所謂的“統(tǒng)一戰(zhàn)線”戰(zhàn)術(shù)，與非共產(chǎn)黨團體合作實現(xiàn)其目標，并取得了一些成功。

“As far as bringing Kinmen closer to China, I’d say at present it still looks doubtful,” Mr. Wang said, “but you can’t deny that the resources China has invested in United Front work in Kinmen have had a certain effect.”

“要拉攏金門，我說現(xiàn)在還不太可能，”王定宇說。“但你不能否認中國在金門的統(tǒng)戰(zhàn)工作投入的資源產(chǎn)生了一定的效果。”

Chen Fu-hai, the magistrate of Kinmen County, who shared the stage with Mr. Liu at the pipeline ceremony, said he wasn’t concerned that the water supply would give China political leverage.

與劉結(jié)一一同出席通水儀式的金門縣縣長陳福海說，他并不擔心供水會增加中國的政治影響力。

“I think China and Taiwan should have more interaction,” he said in an interview.

“我認為中國和臺灣應(yīng)該有更多交流，”他在接受采訪時說。

The new pipeline will provide Kinmen with 30 percent of its tap water, making up for strains on water supplies from growing Chinese tourism, environmental factors and the two sorghum liquor distilleries that provide most of the county’s tax revenue.

新管道將為金門提供30%的自來水，彌補中國游客增長、環(huán)境因素以及金門稅收大戶——兩家高粱酒廠所帶來的供水壓力。

On a recent hot afternoon at Kinmen’s Tianpo Reservoir, where the pipeline from China empties, Hong Yanming, a Kinmen resident, called the new water connection a “joyous occasion for both sides of the Taiwan Strait.” She was taking photos with friends and family visiting from China.

前不久一個炎熱的下午，中國的輸水管將水注入金門的田埔水庫，當?shù)鼐用窈槠G明(音)說，這個新的供水系統(tǒng)是“海峽兩岸的歡樂慶典”。她和來自中國的朋友與家人合影留念。

Ms. Hong moved to Kinmen from China 24 years ago after marrying a local man. She is one of a few thousand Chinese women to have married Kinmenese men in the last three decades, one aspect of the growing ties between Kinmen and China. Many Kinmenese own property or do business in China.

24年前，洪艷明與一名當?shù)啬凶咏Y(jié)婚后，從中國搬到了金門。在過去30年里，有數(shù)千名中國女性嫁到金門，這也是金門與中國之間關(guān)系日益密切的一個方面。許多金門人在中國有房產(chǎn)或者做生意。

She said her home village, Weitou, was next to the lake that is now feeding the reservoir here. “There are about 40 women from Weitou village here in Kinmen,” she said. “I’m so happy — now we can all drink water from our hometown.”

洪艷明說，她的家鄉(xiāng)圍頭村就位于給這里供水的湖邊。 “金門大概有40個圍頭的女人，”她說。“我很開心——現(xiàn)在我們都能喝到家鄉(xiāng)的水了。”

As in mainland Taiwan, identity can be a complicated question for people born in Kinmen. The older generation tends to identify more as Chinese than Taiwanese, while younger people often view China’s growing influence warily.

和臺灣本島一樣，對于在金門出生的人來說，身份定位可能是一個復雜的問題。老一輩人更傾向于認為自己是中國人，而不是臺灣人;而年輕人往往對中國日益增長的影響力保持警惕。

The island, along with adjacent Lesser Kinmen, was shelled sporadically by China from the 1950s through the late 1970s. It was heavily militarized and cut off even from mainland Taiwan until 1992, when martial law on Kinmen ended — five years later than in the rest of Taiwan — and residents participated in their first local elections.

從上世紀50年代到70年代末，這個島嶼以及鄰近的小金門不時遭到中國的炮擊。在1992年解除軍事戒嚴以前，它一直處于高度軍事化狀態(tài)，甚至與臺灣本島隔絕。金門軍事戒嚴的解除比臺灣其他地區(qū)晚了5年，在這以后，居民們才參加了他們的第一次地方選舉。

Kinmen, unlike mainland Taiwan, did not spend half a century as a Japanese colony; it was a Chinese territory for most of that time. Such stark differences in their experiences, as well as the distance between the islands, have made the relationship awkward.

與臺灣本島不同，金門沒有成為半個世紀的日本殖民地;在那段歷史的大部分時間里，它都是中國領(lǐng)土。在經(jīng)歷上的如此明顯的差異，以及島嶼之間的距離，使金門和臺灣本島的關(guān)系變得尷尬。

Tourists visiting Kinmen from mainland Taiwan might find it odd to hear a resident speak of “going to Taiwan” for school or work, implying that Kinmen isn’t part of Taiwan.

當金門居民說“去臺灣”上學或工作，好像金門不屬于臺灣一樣時，從臺灣本島來到金門觀光的游客可能會覺得奇怪。

Many Kinmenese say they’ve been abandoned by Taipei, Taiwan’s capital, since the arrival of democracy. Mr. Chen, an independent politician who is Kinmen’s first elected magistrate not to be a member of the Nationalists, or Kuomintang, said none of Taiwan’s elected presidents had paid enough attention to the county’s needs.

許多金門居民說，自從民主制度建立后，他們就被臺北——臺灣的首府拋棄了。陳先生是一名獨立政客，也是金門第一個不屬于國民黨的民選縣長。他說，沒有一個臺灣民選總統(tǒng)對金門縣的需要給予足夠的關(guān)注。

After Kinmen’s demilitarization in 1992, he said, “we lacked water, we lacked electricity and we lacked roads — we had nothing.”

1992年金門非軍事化后，他說，“我們沒有水，沒有電，沒有道路，什么都沒有。”

Economically, he said, Kinmen has largely had to fend for itself since then, relying primarily on sorghum liquor sales and, more recently, Chinese tourism. Ferry services to mainland China began in 2001, and Kinmen’s view of its giant neighbor has been softening since then.

他說，從經(jīng)濟上講，從那以后，金門基本上不得不自食其力，主要依靠高粱酒的銷售，以及最近的中國旅游業(yè)。通往中國大陸的渡輪服務(wù)始于2001年，此后金門對這個龐大鄰居的看法一直在軟化。

“Right now, actually, I see the mainland as also being quite democratic, at least what I’ve seen in Xiamen,” Mr. Chen said of the booming Chinese city nearby. Asked to clarify that, he said he meant that the local government departments he’d met with had been “quite open.”

“現(xiàn)在，實際上，我認為大陸也是相當民主的，至少我在廈門看到的是這樣。”陳先生在提到附近繁榮的中國城市時說。當被要求進一步說明時，他說，他的意思是，他會見的相關(guān)地方政府部門“相當開放”。

Lauren Dickey, a researcher at King’s College London who specializes in Beijing-Taiwan relations, said China’s pull on Kinmen was only natural.

倫敦大學國王學院(King s College London)研究北京與臺灣關(guān)系的研究員勞倫·迪基(Lauren Dickey)表示，中國對金門的吸引力是自然的。

“If the local government on Kinmen is not finding the central government in Taipei to be meeting its needs, then it is perhaps only logical that the Kinmen government would reach out to the geographically closest resources to ensure needs are met,” she said.

她說，“如果金門地方政府發(fā)現(xiàn)臺北中央政府并不能滿足其需求，那么為確保需求得到滿足，金門政府接觸地理上最接近的資源或許是合乎邏輯的。”

In the shadow of Xiamen’s urban buzz, much of Kinmen’s population has been hollowed out, with young people opting to move to the Taiwanese mainland or to China. Most of its photogenic traditional villages are only about one-third occupied, with many of the old courtyard homes in disrepair.

在廈門城市喧囂的陰影下，金門的大部分人口已經(jīng)被掏空。許多年輕人選擇搬到臺灣或中國大陸。那些風光秀美的傳統(tǒng)村莊大多只剩下三分之一的人口，許多老院子年久失修。

Some young people who have stayed say the political climate has changed.

一些留下來的年輕人說，政治氣候已經(jīng)改變。

Wang Ting-chi returned to Kinmen after six years in New York and founded a company, Local Methodology, to provide a nongovernmental platform for promoting Kinmen culture. She said she was concerned that Kinmenese felt like “orphans” because of the distance from Taiwan’s main island, and that they might be tempted by overtures from an increasingly powerful China.

王莛頎在紐約工作6年后回到金門，成立了一家名為“敬土豆”的公司，為推廣金門文化提供一個非政府的平臺。她說她擔心，由于與臺灣主島相距遙遠，金門人感覺自己像“孤兒”，他們可能會被日益強大的中國的示好所誘惑。

People who express concerns about Chinese influence, Ms. Wang said, are often dismissed as naïve. “I think Kinmen is going off on its own to establish relations with China,” she said.

王莛頎說，那些對中國影響表示擔憂的人往往不被理會，被認為是天真。她說：“我覺得金門將會獨立運作，和中國建立關(guān)系。”