最親愛的全家:
此刻我真真切切地坐在巴斯飯店內(nèi)臨街的窗前,在倫敦皮卡迪利大街。這旅館并不是時髦交際場所,但叔叔幾年前在這里留宿過,而且不想去別的旅館。不過,我們沒打算長待,所以沒什么。噢,我無法一五一十地表達(dá)我是多么喜歡這里的一切!恐怕永遠(yuǎn)不能了,因此只能從記事本中摘錄點(diǎn)滴情況給你們寄去,自從出發(fā)以來啥事也沒干,除了素描和簡短潦草地寫些東西。
曾在哈利法克斯港發(fā)出過一封短信,當(dāng)時感覺糟極了。但從那以后,日子過得快活起來了,很少生病,整天在甲板上,有許多快樂的人來逗我開心。每個人對我都很友善,尤其是那些軍官。別笑,喬,在船上是真的非常需要男士們,可以扶靠他們,他們還可以伺候你。他們沒事做,讓他們變得有用是一種慈悲,否則,他們恐怕會抽煙抽死。
嬸嬸和弗洛一路上身體不舒服,喜歡獨(dú)自待著,所以為她們做了力所能及的事以后,我就出去玩?zhèn)€痛快。多么悠閑地在甲板上散步,多么絢麗的落日,多么清新的空氣和壯觀的波濤!簡直就像當(dāng)初我們騎上駿馬雄赳赳地奔馳一樣刺激。真希望貝絲能來,這對她的身體是很有好處的。至于喬,她可能會爬上去坐在主桅前的三角帆上,或者管它叫什么來著的高高的東西上,與輪機(jī)員交朋友,在船長的傳聲筒上咋呼,她會這樣喜不自勝的。
一切都美極了,但看到愛爾蘭海岸時,我還是很高興,覺得它非常可愛。郁郁蔥蔥,陽光燦爛,到處可見棕色的小屋,某些山上還有廢墟,山谷里有紳士們的鄉(xiāng)間宅邸,狩獵區(qū)里有鹿在吃草。天還很早,但起早欣賞美景不感到遺憾。海灣里小船很多,岸上風(fēng)景如畫,頭頂是玫瑰紅的朝霞。這個畫面令我畢生難忘。
在昆士頓鎮(zhèn),新認(rèn)識的一個朋友倫諾克斯先生下船離開了我們。我說起基拉尼湖時,他看著我,嘆息著吟誦起來:
噢,你可曾聽說過凱特·基阿尼?
她就住在基拉尼湖畔;
她眼睛一瞥,
危險(xiǎn),避之不及,
凱特·基阿尼的目光能致命。
難道不是很荒唐的嗎?
在利物浦只停泊了幾個小時。那里又臟亂又嘈雜,很高興能早點(diǎn)離開。叔叔匆匆跑下船,買了一副狗皮手套、一雙丑陋而笨重的鞋子和一把雨傘,還把胡子剃成絡(luò)腮式的了,這可是頭等大事。然后,他自吹自擂,這下像個真正的英國人了??伤谝淮稳ゲ列?,擦鞋童一眼就看出前面站著的是美國人,笑嘻嘻地說:“擦畢[1]了,先生。我是用最新美國佬鞋油擦的。”叔叔被逗得哈哈大笑。噢,一定得告訴你們那個荒唐的倫諾克斯做了什么!他讓朋友沃德為我訂購了一束花,沃德回船與我們同行的。我打開房門就一眼看到了一束漂亮的鮮花,卡片上面寫著“羅伯特·倫諾克斯敬獻(xiàn)”。好不好玩,姐姐們?我喜歡旅游。
如果不抓緊點(diǎn),恐怕永遠(yuǎn)沒空寫倫敦的事了。這次旅行就像驅(qū)車經(jīng)過一個很長的畫廊,有看不完的美景。農(nóng)舍讓我欣喜,茅草屋頂,常春藤爬上屋檐,格子窗戶,門口有壯實(shí)的婦女,身邊帶著臉色紅潤的孩子們。連牛看上去都比我們的更安靜些,站在齊膝的苜蓿草中,母雞滿足地咯咯叫著,好像它們從來不會像美國佬的小雞那樣神經(jīng)質(zhì)地叫。從來沒見過這么完美的顏色——草碧綠、天湛藍(lán)、谷物金黃,森林蔥郁,一路過來我欣喜若狂。弗洛也和我一樣,我們不停地從這邊跳到那邊,不想放過每一個美景,而我們正在以時速六十英里向前疾駛呢。嬸嬸感到疲倦睡覺去了,但叔叔在讀他的旅行指南,對任何事物都無動于衷。這就是我們的狀況:我跳起來——“噢,那樹叢中灰灰的地方肯定是凱尼爾沃思!”弗洛沖到我的舷窗來——“多美呀!我們總有一天要去那里,是不是,爸爸?”叔叔平靜地欣賞著自己的靴子——“不行,乖乖,除非你要喝啤酒,否則不會去那里,那是個釀酒廠。”
這樣安靜了片刻——接著弗洛又叫起來:“天哪,有個絞架,一個人正在往上爬。”“在哪兒,哪兒?”我尖聲叫著,往外望,看見遠(yuǎn)處有兩根高高的柱子,之間有一根橫梁,梁上掛著幾根鏈條。“是煤礦哪。”叔叔說,單眼一眨。“這兒有可愛的羊群躺著呢。”我說。“看,爸爸,它們是不是很漂亮?”弗洛富有情感地補(bǔ)充了一句。“是鵝群,小姐們。”叔叔回答說。他的語氣使我們安靜了下來,后來弗洛坐著欣賞起《卡文迪什船長調(diào)情記》,而我獨(dú)享景色。
我們抵達(dá)倫敦時正下雨,這是意料之中的。因此,除了霧和雨傘看不到其他東西。我們住下來,打開行李,在大雨間隙買了些東西?,旣悑饗鸾o我買了些新物品,我走得太匆忙,準(zhǔn)備不充分。一頂裝飾著藍(lán)色羽毛的白帽子,配上棉布裙衫,還有從沒見過的最漂亮的披風(fēng)。在攝政街購物太棒了。東西都挺便宜,漂亮的絲帶只要六便士一碼,我買了點(diǎn)備用,但手套要到巴黎買。你們說這是不是有點(diǎn)兒高雅和富有?
叔叔嬸嬸出去了。出于好玩,弗洛和我叫了輛雙輪雙座馬車出去兜風(fēng),后來得知,小姐單獨(dú)乘出租馬車并不時髦。太逗了!我們被木擋板關(guān)在車廂里,車夫駕著車子飛快地跑著。弗洛害怕了,她叫我去制止他??墒撬谕饷?,高坐在后面的什么地方,我無法接近。他聽不到我的叫聲,也沒看到我在前面揮動著陽傘,事情就這么著,很無奈,馬車哐當(dāng)哐當(dāng)一路奔馳,以非常危險(xiǎn)的高速拐著每一個彎。終于,絕望之中我看到車廂的頂上有一扇小門,一捅就打開了,一只紅眼睛出現(xiàn)了,他用喝醉了的聲音說:
“干什么,小姐?”
我盡可能嚴(yán)肅地下達(dá)了命令,砰地關(guān)上門。“好,好,小姐。”那人讓馬漫步走著,仿佛去參加葬禮。我又把門捅開說:“稍稍快一點(diǎn)。”于是他又策馬奔跑起來,跟前面一樣慌張,我們只能聽天由命了。
今天天氣晴朗,我們到附近的海德公園散步,我們比自己的外表更有貴族氣派。德文郡公爵就住在附近。我經(jīng)??吹剿碾S從在后門閑逛,惠靈頓公爵的宅邸離這兒也不遠(yuǎn)。天哪,我看到的都是些什么景象??!就像《笨拙》雜志的漫畫一樣好看,胖墩墩的富孀坐在紅黃四輪馬車?yán)锍鲂?,華服仆從腳穿絲綢長襪,身穿天鵝絨外套坐在后面,撲了粉的馬車夫坐在車前。伶俐的女傭們帶著臉色極紅潤的孩子,標(biāo)致的姑娘們看上去半睡不醒,戴著古怪的英國帽子和穿著淡紫色山羊皮衣的小伙子們懶洋洋地閑逛著。身著紅色上衣的高個子士兵們,頭上斜扣著松餅帽子,樣子很滑稽,很想給他們畫速寫。“洛騰街”法語叫Route de Roi,意思是“國王之路”,可是現(xiàn)在更像是騎術(shù)學(xué)校。那里的馬很棒,男士們騎術(shù)很高,尤其是馬夫,可是女士們僵硬地騎在馬上跳躍著,與我們的規(guī)則不一樣。我很想讓她們看看美國式的飛奔,因?yàn)樗齻兇┲鴨伪〉尿T裝,戴著高帽,駕馭著馬兒小跑著,表情很嚴(yán)肅,像玩具諾亞方舟里的女人。這里人人都會騎馬,不管是年長的男士、矮胖的婦人,還是小孩。這里的年輕人很會調(diào)情,看到過一對情侶交換玫瑰花蕾,紐扣眼里插一朵玫瑰花,很時髦的,我認(rèn)為這是一個相當(dāng)好的創(chuàng)意。
下午去了威斯敏斯特教堂,別指望我來描寫它,那是不可能的——只能說太宏偉壯觀了!傍晚要去看費(fèi)其特的戲,我生命中最幸福的一天,就在這一站恰到好處地結(jié)束了。
午夜
夜色已很深了。但是不告訴你們昨晚發(fā)生了什么,就無法在早上把信寄出。你們猜,我們喝茶的時候誰來了?勞里的英國朋友雙胞胎弗雷德·沃恩和弗蘭克·沃恩!我太吃驚了,要不是看了名片不可能認(rèn)出他們。他倆都長得很高,還留了腮胡。弗雷德是英國式的英俊。弗蘭克身體好多了,只有一點(diǎn)點(diǎn)跛,不用靠拐杖了。他們從勞里的信里得知我們住在這里,便來邀請我們到他們家去。但叔叔不愿意去,所以我們要再找時間回訪他們。他們陪我們?nèi)≡嚎磻?,大家都高興極了。弗蘭克全身心地和弗洛攀談,弗雷德和我談?wù)撨^去、現(xiàn)在和將來的趣事,仿佛我們一直都熟悉。告訴貝絲,弗蘭克向她問候,聽說她身體不好感到很難過。當(dāng)我談到喬時,弗雷德笑了,他向“那個大帽子致意”。他倆都沒忘記勞倫斯?fàn)I地,也沒忘記一起度過的美好時光。那似乎是很多年以前的事兒了,是不是?
嬸嬸在墻壁上敲了三次了,必須擱筆了。我真的感到自己像一個放肆的倫敦貴婦人,坐在這里寫到這么晚,房間里滿是漂亮的東西,腦子里翻騰著公園、劇院、新衣衫。還有那些好獻(xiàn)殷勤的男士,他們一聲“??!”,然后用手捻著金黃色的胡子,十足的英國貴族氣派。我渴望見到你們大家,盡管我廢話連篇。
永遠(yuǎn)是你們親愛的艾美 于倫敦
親愛的姐姐們:
上一封信跟你們談起過倫敦之旅——沃恩一家真友好,多次為我們舉辦了愉快的聚會。漢普頓宮和肯辛頓博物館之行,尤其讓我開心——在漢普頓看到了拉斐爾的漫畫,博物館的展廳里滿是透納[2]、勞倫斯[3]、雷諾茲[4]、賀加斯[5]等巨擘的繪畫。在里士滿公園度過的那一天真快活,享受了地地道道的英國式野餐。那里有很多漂亮的橡樹和鹿群,畫都畫不完。我也聽到了夜鶯歌唱,看到了云雀騰飛。多虧弗雷德和弗蘭克,我們盡情“兜”倫敦,離開的時候不免有些難過。英國人盡管接受你很慢,但是一旦決心接受你了,我想那是再好客不過了。沃恩一家希望冬天在羅馬見到我們。要是他們失約,我肯定會非常失望的,因?yàn)楦袢R斯和我已是好朋友了,男孩們也很好——尤其是弗雷德。
瞧,我們剛剛落腳,他就又來了,說是來度假的,要去瑞士。嬸嬸剛開始顯得有點(diǎn)冷淡,但他泰然處之,她也不說什么了。現(xiàn)在我們相處得很好,很高興他來了,因?yàn)樗姆ㄕZ說得很溜,跟本地人沒有區(qū)別,我不知道沒有他,我們會怎么樣。叔叔認(rèn)識不到十個單詞,他總是把英語講得很響,好像聲音大一點(diǎn)兒人家就能聽懂了。嬸嬸的法語發(fā)音是老式的,弗洛和我自以為很懂,結(jié)果發(fā)現(xiàn)我們的法語也不怎么樣。非常感謝有弗雷德去“說大戲”,叔叔就是這樣說的。
我們度過了多么美好的時光!從早到晚觀光,中午在輕松愉快的小餐館里美餐,經(jīng)歷了各種各樣好笑的奇遇。下雨的日子里,我陶醉在盧浮宮的繪畫里。對其中的一些極品,喬可能會淘氣地嗤之以鼻。她沒有藝術(shù)熱情,但我不同,我要盡快地陶冶自己的眼力和品位。她可能更欣賞偉人的遺物,我已看到她所崇拜的拿破侖三角帽和灰色大衣,他兒時的搖籃和他的舊牙刷。還看到了瑪麗·安托瓦內(nèi)特[6]的小鞋,圣但尼[7]的指環(huán),查理大帝[8]的劍,有趣的東西還有許多。回家后可以跟你們談上好幾個小時,但現(xiàn)在沒有時間來寫。
皇宮是個極其富麗堂皇的地方,有很多珠寶首飾和可愛的東西,我因買不起而幾近發(fā)瘋。弗雷德要給我買一些,我當(dāng)然不允許。布洛涅樹林和香榭麗舍大街tres magnifique[9]。我見過幾次皇室成員?;实坶L得很丑,看上去冷酷無情;皇后漂亮但蒼白,而且依我看穿著很不得體——紫色的裙衫,綠色的帽子,黃色的手套。小拿泊[10]是個英俊的男孩,他坐在四馬大車上,一邊與家庭教師聊天,一邊向經(jīng)過的人群飛吻,每一匹馬上的御者都穿著紅色綢緞短上衣,車前車后各有一個騎馬的衛(wèi)兵。
我們經(jīng)常在杜伊勒里公園散步,很棒的,雖然我更喜歡古色古香的盧森堡花園。拉雪茲神甫公墓很奇特,那里有許多墳?zāi)箍瓷先ハ褚粋€個小房間。走近往里望,可以看到一張桌子,桌子上擺著死者的肖像或者畫像,桌子周圍還有幾張椅子,供前來憑吊者坐的。這是非常有法國味的一件事。
我們的房間在里佛利大街,坐在陽臺上,可以把這條燦爛的長街盡收眼底。在外面玩了一天很累了,晚上不想動,坐在陽臺上聊天真是一種享受。弗雷德很逗,是我見過的青年中最容易相處的人——勞里除外,勞里的舉止更有風(fēng)度。我希望弗雷德黑一點(diǎn),不喜歡白皮膚的男人??墒牵侄骷液芨挥?,出身名門望族,因此我沒覺得他們的黃頭發(fā)不好,再說我自己的頭發(fā)更黃。
下禮拜要動身去德國和瑞士。由于要趕路,所以只能給你們草草地寫一點(diǎn)。每天記日記,盡量準(zhǔn)確記住和清楚描寫所見所聞,這是爸爸的建議。這對我也是個很好的練習(xí),這些日記加上我的寫生簿,能比這些短信更好地向你們傳達(dá)此次旅行的情況。
再見,親切地?fù)肀銈儭?/p>
你們的艾美 于巴黎
親愛的媽媽:
趁我們動身去伯爾尼之前有一會兒空閑,我要告訴您發(fā)生了些什么,因?yàn)橛行┦潞苤匾?,您一會兒就會明白?/p>
在萊茵河溯流而上太棒了,我只是坐著盡情享受。拿出爸爸的舊旅行指南翻閱著。景色的美難以用語言來形容。在科布倫茨玩得很開心,弗雷德在船上認(rèn)識了一些來自波恩的學(xué)生,他們給我們唱了小夜曲。那是個明月之夜,一點(diǎn)鐘左右,弗洛和我被窗口下最動聽的樂曲吵醒了。我們飛快地爬起來,躲在窗簾后面窺望,發(fā)現(xiàn)弗雷德和學(xué)生們在窗下唱著。這是平生見過的最浪漫的情景了——那河,那浮橋、對面岸上的大要塞,月光灑滿大地,音樂可以融化石頭的心。
他們唱完后,我們?nèi)酉氯ヒ恍┗ǘ?,只見他們爭搶著,還給看不見的姑娘們送來飛吻,然后笑著走開了,我猜想可能是去抽煙喝酒來著。次日早晨,弗雷德給我看他背心口袋里一朵壓壞了的花,看上去很動情。我嘲笑他說,我并沒有扔花,是弗洛扔的。這一說似乎讓他很反感,他把花丟出窗外,恢復(fù)理智了??峙挛腋@個男孩會有麻煩,現(xiàn)在已經(jīng)有苗頭了。
拿騷的溫泉浴場很好玩,巴登巴登也一樣。在巴登巴登,弗雷德輸了錢,我罵了他。弗蘭克不在身邊的時候,他需要人照顧。凱特曾經(jīng)說,她希望他早點(diǎn)成婚,我也同意她的看法,結(jié)婚對他有好處。法蘭克福令人賞心悅目。我瞻仰了歌德故居、席勒雕像,還有丹尼克[11]的雕塑名作《阿里阿德涅騎豹》,它非??蓯?。要是多懂一點(diǎn)希臘神話,就可以欣賞得更好。我不想請教,因?yàn)檫@故事盡人皆知,或者大家都不懂裝懂。希望喬能從頭至尾給我講講這個故事。我應(yīng)該多讀點(diǎn)書,發(fā)現(xiàn)自己孤陋寡聞,真苦惱。
現(xiàn)在言歸正傳——事情就發(fā)生在這里,弗雷德剛剛離開。他是那么友好,樂呵呵的,大家都相當(dāng)喜歡他。在唱小夜曲之前,除了旅伴友誼,我從來沒多想。自那晚以后,我開始感覺到月光下漫步、陽臺交談、每天的探險(xiǎn),對他來說不僅僅是好玩了。我沒有賣弄風(fēng)情,媽媽,真的,我永遠(yuǎn)記著您對我說的話,而且盡力而為。人家要喜歡我,我也沒辦法。我沒有刻意讓人家喜歡我。如果我不關(guān)心他們,會難過的,盡管喬說我這個人沒心沒肺。我知道媽媽這會兒會搖搖頭,姐姐們會說:“噢,這唯利是圖的小東西!”但我已決定,如果弗雷德求婚,我就接受,盡管我自己并沒有發(fā)瘋似的愛上他。我喜歡他,我們在一起相處得很愜意。他年輕英俊,還算聰明,腰纏萬貫——比勞倫斯家富裕得多。我想他家不會反對的。我將會很幸福,因?yàn)樗麄兌己苌屏?,有教養(yǎng),慷慨大方,而且他們喜歡我。弗雷德是雙胞胎中的老大,我想他會繼承產(chǎn)業(yè)的,那產(chǎn)業(yè)有多棒啊!在市區(qū)一條時髦的街上擁有宅邸,不像美國大房子那么花哨,但舒適度高兩倍,實(shí)實(shí)在在的華貴,英國人信奉這種風(fēng)格。我喜歡,它貨真價(jià)實(shí)。我見過金銀餐具、傳家珠寶、老仆人,還有鄉(xiāng)間別墅的圖片,里面有狩獵場、大宅、漂亮的花園和駿馬。哦,這些令人心滿愿足!我可不愿像一些姑娘那樣一味追搶爵位,結(jié)果卻發(fā)現(xiàn)除了爵位啥也沒有。我可能是唯利是圖,但我對貧窮深惡痛絕,只要能夠,我就不想再多忍受一分鐘。四姐妹當(dāng)中必須有一個人嫁得好。美格沒做到,喬不愿意,貝絲還不能,所以我來吧,把周圍的一切搞得溫馨點(diǎn)。我不會跟不喜歡或看不起的人結(jié)婚的。這一點(diǎn)你們放心,盡管弗雷德不是我心中的白馬王子,但是他言談舉止很得當(dāng),如果他很喜歡我,讓我隨心所欲,我終有一天會喜歡上他的。因此,上個禮拜,這件事一直在我腦子里轉(zhuǎn)著,不由自主地看弗雷德喜歡我的神情。他雖然沒說什么,但見微知著呀。他從來不跟弗洛一起走,坐馬車,上餐桌,散步,總是靠近我的邊上。單獨(dú)在一起的時候,他顯得很動感情,看到有人膽敢與我說話,他會皺眉頭。昨晚用餐時,一個奧地利軍官盯著我們看,然后對他的朋友說了些什么“美艷金發(fā)女郎”,那朋友是個風(fēng)流倜儻的男爵。弗雷德的臉色就像兇猛的獅子,狠狠地切割著自己盤子上的肉,因用力過猛,肉差點(diǎn)兒飛出了盤子。他不是那種冷靜而拘謹(jǐn)?shù)挠耍宰佑悬c(diǎn)暴躁,因?yàn)樯砩狭魈手K格蘭人的血,那雙漂亮的藍(lán)眼睛可以讓人猜到這一點(diǎn)。
哦,昨天傍晚大概日落時分,我們?nèi)チ顺潜?,除了弗雷德,他要先?ldquo;存局候領(lǐng)”處取信,再來與我們會合。大家都玩得很盡興,逛遍了遺跡、存放大酒桶的地窖和很久以前選帝侯為英國妻子建造的美麗花園。我最喜歡那個大露臺,那里景觀令人神往,其他人進(jìn)屋參觀房間時,我就坐在露臺上,畫著墻上灰色的石獅子頭,其周圍爬著紅色的紫莖忍冬藤。我感到自己仿佛墜入了羅曼史:坐在那里,看著內(nèi)卡河的溪水翻滾著流入山谷,聽著城堡下面奧地利樂隊(duì)演奏的樂曲,就像故事書中的女孩那樣,等待著情人到來。我感覺到有什么事就要發(fā)生了,而我已做好了準(zhǔn)備。我沒臉紅,也沒顫抖,而是相當(dāng)冷靜,稍微有點(diǎn)兒激動罷了。
后來,我聽到有弗雷德的聲音,只見他匆匆穿過大拱門來找我。他看上去心煩意亂,所以我完全忘了自己,忙問發(fā)生了什么事。他說收到信,要他火速回家,弗蘭克病重。他打算乘夜車立刻回家,時間只夠說再見。我為他感到很難過,也為自己感到失望。但這種感覺只停留了那么一瞬,因?yàn)樗罩业氖终f:“很快就回來的,不會忘了我吧,艾美?”這種口氣,我不可能誤解他的意思。
我沒承諾,但雙眼看著他,他似乎滿足了。他來不及了,僅夠說說情況,道聲再見。一小時后他就出發(fā)了,大家都放不下他。我知道他欲言又止,但他曾經(jīng)暗示過,所以我猜想,他可能答應(yīng)過父親暫時不做求婚之類的事。他是個輕率的孩子,而老父親害怕他娶進(jìn)一個外國媳婦。不久就會在羅馬見面,到了那個時候,如果我沒改變主意的話,當(dāng)他說:“你愿意嗎?”我會說:“愿意,謝謝。”
當(dāng)然這是很私密的事,我只是希望讓您了解情況。請不要為我擔(dān)心,別忘了我永遠(yuǎn)是您“謹(jǐn)慎的艾美”,我肯定不會魯莽行事。盡管給我忠告。如果我能做到,肯定言聽計(jì)從,真希望能與您好好面談一次,媽咪。愛我,相信我。
永遠(yuǎn)屬于您的艾美于海德堡
* * *
[1]原文系倫敦方言。
[2]英國畫家(1775—1851)。
[3]英國畫家(1769—1830)。
[4]英國畫家(1723—1792)。
[5]英國畫家(1697—1764)。
[6]法國末代王后,1755年生,1793年上斷頭臺。
[7]公元二世紀(jì)基督教殉道士,法國的最高圣人。
[8]法蘭克國王(742? —814)。
[9]法語:極盡恢弘輝煌。
[10]此時法國國王是拿破侖三世,小拿泊為其子嗣。
[11]德國雕塑家(1758—1841)。
London
Dearest People,
Here I really sit at a front window of the Bath Hotel, Piccadilly. It's not a fashionable place, but Uncle stopped here years ago, and won't go anywhere else; however, we don't mean to stay long, so it's no great matter. Oh, I can't begin to tell you how I enjoy it all! I never can, so I'll only give you bits out of my notebook, for I've done nothing but sketch and scribble since I started.
I sent a line from Halifax, when I felt pretty miserable, but after that I got on delightfully, seldom ill, on deck all day, with plenty of pleasant people to amuse me. Everyone was very kind to me, especially the officers. Don't laugh, Jo, gentlemen really are very necessary aboard ship, to hold on to, or to wait upon one; and as they have nothing to do, it's a mercy to make them useful, otherwise they would smoke themselves to death, I'm afraid.
Aunt and Flo were poorly all the way, and liked to be let alone, so when I had done what I could for them, I went and enjoyed myself. Such walks on deck, such sunsets, such splendid air and waves! It was almost as exciting as riding a fast horse, when we went rushing on so grandly. I wish Beth could have come, it would have done her so much good; as for Jo, she would have gone up and sat on the maintop jib, or whatever the high thing is called, made friends with the engineers, and tooted on the captain's speaking trumpet, she'd have been in such a state of rapture.
It was all heavenly, but I was glad to see the Irish coast, and found it very lovely, so green and sunny, with brown cabins here and there, ruins on some of the hills, and gentlemen's countryseats in the valleys, with deer feeding in the parks. It was early in the morning, but I didn't regret getting up to see it,for the bay was full of little boats,the shore so picturesque, and a rosy sky overhead. I never shall forget it.
At Queenstown one of my new acquaintances left us, Mr. Lennox, and when I said something about the Lakes of Killarney, he sighed, and sung, with a look at me—
Oh, have you e'er heard of Kate Kearney?
She lives on the banks of Killarney;
From the glance of her eye,
Shun danger and fly,
For fatal's the glance of Kate Kearney.
Wasn't that nonsensical?
We only stopped at Liverpool a few hours. It's a dirty, noisy place, and I was glad to leave it. Uncle rushed out and bought a pair of dogskin gloves, some ugly, thick shoes, and an umbrella, and got shaved à la mutton chop, the first thing. Then he flattered himself that he looked like a true Briton, but the first time he had the mud cleaned off his shoes, the little bootblack knew that an American stood in them, and said, with a grin, “There yer har, sir. I've given 'em the latest Yankee shine.”It amused Uncle immensely.Oh,I must tell you what that absurd Lennox did! He got his friend Ward, who came on with us, to order a bouquet for me, and the first thing I saw in my room was a lovely one, with “Robert Lennox's compliments, ” on the card. Wasn't that fun, girls? I like traveling.
I never shall get to London if I don't hurry.The trip was like riding through a long picture gallery, full of lovely landscapes. The farmhouses were my delight, with thatched roofs, ivy up to the eaves, latticed windows, and stout women with rosy children at the doors. The very cattle looked more tranquil than ours, as they stood knee-deep in clover, and the hens had a contented cluck, as if they never got nervous like Yankee biddies. Such perfect color I never saw—the grass so green, sky so blue, grain so yellow, woods so dark—I was in a rapture all the way. So was Flo, and we kept bouncing from one side to the other, trying to see everything while we were whisking along at the rate of sixty miles an hour. Aunt was tired and went to sleep, but Uncle read his guidebook, and wouldn't be astonished at anything. This is the way we went on: Amy, flying up— “Oh, that must be Kenilworth, that gray place among the trees! ” Flo, darting to my window—“How sweet! We must go there sometime, won't we Papa? ”Uncle, calmly admiring his boots— “No, my dear, not unless you want beer, that's a brewery.”
A pause—then Flo cried out, “Bless me, there's a gallows and a man going up.” “Where, where? ” shrieks Amy, staring out at two tall posts with a crossbeam and some dangling chains. “A colliery, ” remarks Uncle, with a twinkle of the eye. “Here's a lovely flock of lambs all lying down, ” says Amy. “See, Papa, aren't they pretty? ” added Flo sentimentally. “Geese, young ladies, ” returns Uncle, in a tone that keeps us quiet till Flo settles down to enjoy The Flirtations of Captain Cavendish, and I have the scenery all to myself.
Of course it rained when we got to London, and there was nothing to be seen but fog and umbrellas. We rested, unpacked, and shopped a little between the showers. Aunt Mary got me some new things, for I came off in such a hurry I wasn't half ready. A white hat and blue feather, a muslin dress to match, and the loveliest mantle you ever saw. Shopping in Regent Street is perfectly splendid; Things seem so cheap—nice ribbons only sixpence a yard. I laid in a stock, but shall get my gloves in Paris. Doesn't that sound sort of elegant and rich?
Flo and I, for the fun of it, ordered a hansom cab, while Aunt and Uncle were out, and went for a drive, though we learned afterward that it wasn't the thing for young ladies to ride in them alone. It was so droll! For when we were shut in by the wooden apron, the man drove so fast that Flo was frightened, and told me to stop him, but he was up outside behind somewhere, and I couldn't get at him. He didn't hear me call, nor see me flap my parasol in front, and there we were, quite helpless, rattling away, and whirling around corners at a breakneck pace. At last, in my despair, I saw a little door in the roof, and on poking it open, a red eye appeared, and a beery voice said—
“Now then, mum? ”
I gave my order as soberly as I could, and slamming down the door, with an “Aye, aye, mum, ” the man made his horse walk, as if going to a funeral. I poked again and said, “A little faster, ” then off he went, helter-skelter as before, and we resigned ourselves to our fate.
Today was fair, and we went to Hyde Park, close by, for we are more aristocratic than we look. The Duke of Devonshire lives near. I often see his footmen lounging at the back gate; and the Duke of Wellington's house is not far off. Such sights as I saw, my dear! It was as good as Punch, for there were fat dowagers rolling about in their red and yellow coaches, with gorgeous Jeameses in silk stockings and velvet coats, up behind, and powdered coachmen in front. Smart maids, with the rosiest children I ever saw, handsome girls, looking half asleep, dandies in queer English hats and lavender kids lounging about, and tall soldiers, in short red jackets and muffin caps stuck on one side, looking so funny I longed to sketch them.
Rotten Row means“Route de Roi”,or the king's way,but now it's more like a riding school than anything else. The horses are splendid, and the men, especially the grooms, ride well; but the women are stiff, and bounce, which isn't according to our rules. I longed to show them a tearing American gallop, for they trotted solemnly up and down, in their scant habits and high hats, looking like the women in a toy Noah's Ark. Everyone rides—old men, stout ladies, little children—and the young folks do a deal of flirting here, I saw a pair exchange rose buds, for it's the thing to wear one in the buttonhole, and I thought it rather a nice little idea.
In the P.M. to Westminster Abbey, but don't expect me to describe it, that's impossible—so I'll only say it was sublime! This evening we are going to see Fechter, which will be an appropriate end to the happiest day of my life.
MIDNIGHT
It's very late, but I can't let my letter go in the morning without telling you what happened last evening. Who do you think came in, as we were at tea? Laurie's English friends, Fred and Frank Vaughn! I was so surprised, for I shouldn't have known them but for the cards. Both are tall fellows with whiskers, Fred handsome in the English style, and Frank much better, for he only limps slightly, and uses no crutches. They had heard from Laurie where we were to be, and came to ask us to their house;but Uncle won't go, so we shall return the call, and see them as we can. They went to the theater with us, and we did have such a good time, for Frank devoted himself to Flo, and Fred and I talked over past, present, and future fun as if we had known each other all our days. Tell Beth Frank asked for her, and was sorry to hear of her ill health. Fred laughed when I spoke of Jo, and sent his “respectful compliments to the big hat.” Neither of them had forgotten Camp Laurence, or the fun we had there. What ages ago it seems, doesn't it?
Aunt is tapping on the wall for the third time,so I must stop.I really feel like a dissipated London fine lady, writing here so late, with my room full of pretty things, and my head a jumble of parks, theaters, new gowns,and gallant creatures who say “Ah! ” and twirl their blond mustaches with the true English lordliness. I long to see you all, and in spite of my nonsense am, as ever, your loving—
AMY
PARIS
Dear girls,
In my last I told you about our London visit—how kind the Vaughns were, and what pleasant parties they made for us. I enjoyed the trips to Hampton Court and the Kensington Museum more than anything else—for at Hampton I saw Raphael's cartoons, and at the Museum, rooms full of pictures by Turner, Lawrence, Reynolds, Hogarth, and the other great creatures. The day in Richmond Park was charming, for we had a regular English picnic, and I had more splendid oaks and groups of deer than I could copy; also heard a nightingale, and saw larks go up. We “did”London to our heart's content, thanks to Fred and Frank, and were sorry to go away; for though English people are slow to take you in, when they once make up their minds to do it they cannot be outdone in hospitality, Ithink.The Vaughns hope to meet us in Rome next winter,and I shall be dreadfully disappointed if they don't, for Grace and I are great friends, and the boys very nice fellows—especially Fred.
Well, we were hardly settled here, when he turned up again, saying he had come for a holiday, and was going to Switzerland. Aunt looked sober at first, but he was so cool about it she couldn't say a word; and now we get on nicely, and are very glad he came, for he speaks French like a native, and I don't know what we should do without him. Uncle doesn't know ten words, and insists on talking English very loud, as if it would make people understand him. Aunt's pronunciation is old-fashioned, and Flo and I, though we flattered ourselves that we knew a good deal,find we don't,and are very grateful to have Fred do the“parley vooing, ”as Uncle calls it.
Such delightful times as we are having! Sight-seeing from morning till night, stopping for nice lunches in the gay cafés, and meeting with all sorts of droll adventures. Rainy days I spend in the Louvre, revelling in pictures. Jo would turn up her naughty nose at some of the finest, because she has no soul for art, but I have, and I'm cultivating eye and taste as fast as I can. She would like the relics of great people better, for I've seen her Napoleon's cocked hat and gray coat, his baby's cradle and his old toothbrush; also Marie Antoinette's little shoe, the ring of Saint Denis, Charlemagne's sword, and many other interesting things. I'll talk for hours about them when I come, but haven't time to write.
The Palais Royale is a heavenly place—so full of bijouterie and lovely things that I'm nearly distracted because I can't buy them. Fred wanted to get me some, but of course I didn't allow it. Then the Bois and Champs Elysées are très magnifique.I've seen the imperial family several times, the emperor an ugly, hard-looking man, the empress pale and pretty, but dressed in bad taste, I thought—purple dress, green hat, and yellow gloves. Little Nap is a handsome boy, who sits chatting to his tutor, and kisses his hand to the people as he passes in his four-horse barouche, with postilions in red satin jackets and a mounted guard before and behind.
We often walk in the Tuileries Gardens, for they are lovely, though the antique Luxembourg Gardens suit me better. Père la Chaise is very curious, for many of the tombs are like small rooms, and looking in, one sees a table, with images or pictures of the dead, and chairs for the mourners to sit in when they come to lament. That is so Frenchy.
Our rooms are on the Rue de Rivoli, and sitting on the balcony, we look up and down the long, brilliant street. It is so pleasant that we spend our evenings talking there when too tired with our day's work to go out. Fred is very entertaining, and is altogether the most agreeable young man I ever knew—except Laurie, whose manners are more charming. I wish Fred was dark, for I don't fancy light men, however, the Vaughns are very rich and come of an excellent family, so I won't find fault with their yellow hair, as my own is yellower.
Next week we are off to Germany and Switzerland, and as we shall travel fast, I shall only be able to give you hasty letters. I keep my diary, and try to “remember correctly and describe clearly all that I see and admire, ” as Father advised. It is good practice for me, and with my sketchbook will give you a better idea of my tour than these scribbles.
Adieu, I embrace you tenderly.
VOTRE AMIE
HEIDELBERG
My Dear Mamma,
Having a quiet hour before we leave for Berne, I'll try to tell you what has happened, for some of it is very important, as you will see.
The sail up the Rhine was perfect, and I just sat and enjoyed it with all my might. Get Father's old guidebooks and read about it. I haven't words beautiful enough to describe it. At Coblentz we had a lovely time, for some students from Bonn, with whom Fred got acquainted on the boat, gave us a serenade. It was a moonlight night, and about one o'clock Flo and I were waked by the most delicious music under our windows. We flew up, and hid behind the curtains, but sly peeps showed us Fred and the students singing away down below. It was the most romantic thing I ever saw—the river, the bridge of boats, the great fortress opposite, moonlight everywhere, and music fit to melt a heart of stone.
When they were done we threw down some flowers, and saw them scramble for them, kiss their hands to the invisible ladies, and go laughing away—to smoke and drink beer, I suppose. Next morning Fred showed me one of the crumpled flowers in his vest pocket, and looked very sentimental. I laughed at him, and said I didn't throw it, but Flo, which seemed to disgust him, for he tossed it out of the window, and turned sensible again. I'm afraid I'm going to have trouble with that boy, it begins to look like it.
The baths at Nassau were very gay, so was Baden-Baden, where Fred lost some money, and I scolded him. He needs someone to look after him when Frank is not with him. Kate said once she hoped he'd marry soon, and I quite agree with her that it would be well for him. Frankfurt was delightful; I saw Goethe's house, Schiller's statue, and Dannecker's famous Ariadne.It was very lovely,but I should have enjoyed it more if I had known the story better. I didn't like to ask, as everyone knew it or pretended they did. I wish Jo would tell me all about it; I ought to have read more, for I find I don't know anything, and it mortifies me.
Now comes the serious part—for it happened here, and Fred has just gone. He has been so kind and jolly that we all got quite fond of him. I never thought of anything but a traveling friendship till the serenade night. Since then I've begun to feel that the moonlight walks, balcony talks, and daily adventures were something more to him than fun. I haven't flirted, Mother, truly, but remembered what you said to me, and have done my very best. I can't help it if people like me; I don't try to make them, and it worries me if I don't care for them, though Jo says I haven't got any heart. Now I know Mother will shake her head, and the girls say, “Oh, the mercenary little wretch! ” but I've made up my mind,and if Fred asks me, I shall accept him, though I'm not madly in love. I like him, and we get on comfortably together. He is handsome, young, clever enough, and very rich—ever so much richer than the Laurences. I don't think his family would object, and I should be very happy, for they are all kind, well-bred, generous people, and they like me. Fred, as the eldest twin, will have the estate, I suppose, and such a splendid one it is! A city house in a fashionable street, not so showy as our big houses, but twice as comfortable and full of solid luxury, such as English people believe in. I like it, for it's genuine. I've seen the plate, the family jewels, the old servants, and pictures of the country place, with its park, great house, lovely grounds, and fine horses. Oh, it would be all I should ask! And I'd rather have it than any title such as girls snap up so readily, and find nothing behind. I may be mercenary, but I hate poverty, and don't mean to bear it a minute longer than I can help.One of us must marry well; Meg didn't, Jo won't, Beth can't yet, so I shall, and make everything okay all round. I wouldn't marry a man I hated or despised. You may be sure of that; and though Fred is not my model hero, he does very well, and in time I should get fond enough of him if he was very fond of me, and let me do just as I liked. So I've been turning the matter over in my mind the last week, for it was impossible to help seeing that Fred liked me. He said nothing, but little things showed it; he never goes with Flo, always gets on my side of the carriage, table, or promenade, looks sentimental when we are alone, and frowns at anyone else who ventures to speak to me. Yesterday at dinner, when an Austrian officer stared at us and then said something to his friend—a rakish-looking baron—about“ein wonderschönes Blöndchen”,Fred looked as fierce as a lion,and cut his meat so savagely it nearly flew off his plate. He isn't one of the cool, stiff Englishmen, but is rather peppery, for he has Scotch blood in him, as one might guess from his bonnie blue eyes.
Well, last evening we went up to the castle about sunset—at least all of us but Fred, who was to meet us there after going to the Post Restante for letters. We had a charming time poking about the ruins, the vaults where the monster tun is, and the beautiful gardens made by the elector long ago for his English wife. I liked the great terrace best, for the view was divine, so while the rest went to see the rooms inside, I sat there trying to sketch the gray stone lion's head on the wall, with scarlet woodbine sprays hanging round it. I felt as if I'd got into a romance, sitting there,watching the Neckar rolling through the valley, listening to the music of the Austrian band below, and waiting for my lover, like a real storybook girl. I had a feeling that something was going to happen and I was ready for it. I didn't feel blushy or quakey, but quite cool and only a little excited.
By-and-by I heard Fred's voice, and then he came hurrying through the great arch to find me. He looked so troubled that I forgot all about myself, and asked what the matter was. He said he'd just got a letter begging him to come home, for Frank was very ill; so he was going at once on the night train and only had time to say good-by. I was very sorry for him, and disappointed for myself, but only for a minute because he said, as he shook hands—and said it in a way that I could not mistake—“I shall soon come back, you won't forget me, Amy? ”
I didn't promise, but I looked at him, and he seemed satisfied, and there was no time for anything but messages and good-byes, for he was off in an hour, and we all miss him very much. I know he wanted to speak, but I think, from something he once hinted, that he had promised his father not to do anything of the sort yet a while, for he is a rash boy, and the old gentleman dreads a foreign daughter-in-law. We shall soon meet in Rome, and then, if I don't change my mind, I'll say “Yes, thank you, ” when he says “Will you, please? ”
Of course this is all very private,but I wished you to know what was going on. Don't be anxious about me, remember I am your “prudent Amy”, and be sure I will do nothing rashly. Send me as much advice as you like. I'll use it if I can. I wish I could see you for a good talk, Marmee. Love and trust me.
Ever your
AMY
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