伊萬(wàn)卡在印度的時(shí)尚外交成功了嗎？

Where is the line between culturally appropriate dress and cultural appropriation?

符合文化的著裝與文化挪用之間的界線是什么?

It was hard to look at Ivanka Trump’s wardrobe during her India trip this week and not ask the question. After all, from her opening mother-of-pearl embroidered jacket to her final kurta dress, she swerved from her usual pencil skirts and high heels to make her clothes part of the content of her communications. And there were many: two and a half days, six looks, all excitedly chronicled by local style watchers.

看著伊萬(wàn)卡·特朗普(Ivanka Trump)在本周的印度之旅中的著裝，你難免會(huì)想到這個(gè)問(wèn)題。畢竟，從一開(kāi)始穿的珍珠母繡花上衣，到最后穿的庫(kù)爾塔連衣裙，她一改通常的鉛筆半身裙和高跟鞋風(fēng)格，讓著裝成為她溝通內(nèi)容的一部分。還有其他很多服裝：兩天半，六個(gè)造型——它們都被當(dāng)?shù)氐臅r(shí)尚觀察者們興奮地記錄了下來(lái)。

Indeed, Ms. Trump, in Hyderabad, the capital of the southern Indian state of Telangana, to lead the United States delegation to the eighth annual Global Entrepreneurship Summit, had begun making headlines with fashion even before she arrived. Critics pointed out what they called the hypocrisy of Ivanka Trump (the individual) in making a speech on the importance of female empowerment and equality, when Ivanka Trump (the company) is believed to employ low-wage workers in countries such as … India.

事實(shí)上，在伊萬(wàn)卡·特朗普帶領(lǐng)美國(guó)代表團(tuán)前往印度南部特倫甘納州首府海得拉巴出席第八屆全球創(chuàng)業(yè)峰會(huì)(Global Entrepreneurship Summit)之前，她已經(jīng)因?yàn)闀r(shí)裝上過(guò)新聞了。批評(píng)者們認(rèn)為伊萬(wàn)卡·特朗普很虛偽，她發(fā)表關(guān)于女性權(quán)利與平等的重要性的演講，可是據(jù)傳，她的伊萬(wàn)卡·特朗普時(shí)裝公司卻在印度等國(guó)雇傭低薪工人。

Ms. Trump did not address the issue during her various speeches and panels, but she did use dress in a notable way.

伊萬(wàn)卡·特朗普在各種演講和座談中沒(méi)有提到這個(gè)問(wèn)題，但她利用著裝的方式的確引人注目。

Unlike her stepmother, Melania Trump, who seemed uninterested in leveraging fashion for political capital during her tour through Asia with President Trump, Ivanka Trump seemed to have embraced the idea wholeheartedly. If, at least at the beginning, a little one-dimensionally.

梅拉尼婭·特朗普(Melania Trump)在與特朗普總統(tǒng)訪問(wèn)亞洲期間，似乎對(duì)于利用著裝獲取政治資本沒(méi)有興趣，與繼母不同，伊萬(wàn)卡·特朗普似乎完全接受這個(gè)想法。盡管至少在剛開(kāi)始的時(shí)候，她的想法有點(diǎn)單一。

On Monday evening, for example, she made her initial appearance in a Tory Burch “Sylvia” jacket: a black style covered in mother-of-pearl embroidery that called to mind Indian prints and architecture. As it happens, Hyderabad is historically known as “the city of pearls.”

例如，周一晚上，她初次亮相時(shí)穿的是湯麗柏琦(Tory Burch)的西爾維亞(Sylvia)外衣：一款布滿珍珠母刺繡的黑色外衣，讓人聯(lián)想起印度的印花和建筑。事實(shí)上，海得拉巴在歷史上被稱(chēng)為“珍珠之城”。

Get it?! 明白了嗎?!

Then, on Tuesday, Ms. Trump donned a green brocade Erdem tea-length dress with pink and yellow flowers that some commentators likened to traditional Indian anarkali style, complete with keyhole neckline. (Some others likened it to wallpaper).

然后，在周二，伊萬(wàn)卡穿的是Erdem牌鎖孔領(lǐng)口、綠底粉黃花朵織錦茶會(huì)連衣裙，有些評(píng)論家認(rèn)為它有點(diǎn)像印度傳統(tǒng)的阿納爾卡利(anarkali)風(fēng)格(也有人把它比作墻紙)。

And that evening, though breathless rumors had abounded earlier in the week that she was going to wear a sari gown specially made by the Indian designer Neeta Lulla, a favorite of Bollywood stars, in fact she wore another Tory Burch creation: a long-sleeved, round-necked gown with stylized gold floral embroidery that again had an ersatz Indian theme.

盡管本周早些時(shí)候流傳著驚人的謠言，說(shuō)她要穿深受寶萊塢明星喜愛(ài)的印度設(shè)計(jì)師妮塔·露拉(Neeta Lulla)專(zhuān)門(mén)為她制作的莎麗，但實(shí)際上，她穿的是湯麗柏琦的另一款長(zhǎng)袖圓領(lǐng)金花刺繡的禮服——還是偽印度主題。

According to a spokeswoman for Ms. Lulla, the sari gown had been made as a welcome gesture. It would have been a pretty big statement if Ms. Trump had worn it, but all the Tory Burch was also interesting, given Ms. Burch’s very vocal support of female entrepreneurs — her foundation has a fellows program geared specifically to support women starting their own businesses — and her brand’s contemporary-ish price points. (Admittedly, the dress costs $3,498, but it’s cheaper than the Dior that Melania Trump favors; plus Ms. Trump wore Zara mules repeatedly during the trip, which is relatively budget-conscious of her).

據(jù)露拉的發(fā)言人稱(chēng)，那件莎麗禮服是為了表示歡迎而制作的。如果伊萬(wàn)卡真的穿了它，那將是一個(gè)非常重要的聲明，不過(guò)湯麗柏琦的那些衣服也很有趣，因?yàn)樗鼈兊脑O(shè)計(jì)師伯奇(Burch)女士大力聲援女性創(chuàng)業(yè)者——她的基金會(huì)有一個(gè)會(huì)員項(xiàng)目，專(zhuān)門(mén)支持女性開(kāi)創(chuàng)自己的公司——而且該品牌的價(jià)位也比較符合當(dāng)代特點(diǎn)(當(dāng)然，那條裙子的售價(jià)高達(dá)3498美元，但它比梅拉尼婭·特朗普鐘愛(ài)的迪奧要便宜得多;此外，伊萬(wàn)卡在這次旅行中多次穿著Zara的服裝，那是她行頭中比較便宜的牌子)。

Not that Tory Burch (the company) seemed particularly excited about Ms. Trump’s patronage. “We don’t work with Ivanka at all,” a spokeswoman said by email when asked about it.

湯麗柏琦公司似乎并沒(méi)有對(duì)伊萬(wàn)卡的惠顧感到特別興奮。當(dāng)被問(wèn)及此事時(shí)，該公司的一位發(fā)言人稱(chēng)：“我們完全沒(méi)有與伊萬(wàn)卡合作。”

Though Indian style watchers were generally positive about the dinner dress and pleased that Ms. Trump had abandoned her usual garb for more demure, covered-up styles, there was some griping. DailyO, an online opinion site from the India Today Group, deemed it all a “superficial assimilation of culture” that was compounded by the “floral gown that looked like a ‘me-too’ of a Kashmiri pheran.”

盡管印度的時(shí)尚觀察者們普遍對(duì)那件晚宴禮服表示贊賞，很高興伊萬(wàn)卡放棄一貫的裝束，選擇更端莊、更少暴露的風(fēng)格，但也有人表示不滿。印度今日集團(tuán)(India Today Group)的在線評(píng)論網(wǎng)站DailyO認(rèn)為這些都是“膚淺的文化融合”，“那件印花禮服看起來(lái)更像是克什米爾服裝”。

Bandana Tewari, the editor at large of Vogue India, said, “If Ivanka’s clothes are to be an acknowledgment of an ancient and rich culture like ours, especially as she arrives as a dignitary, then the sartorial ‘tribute’ should be authentic in its intention. We would rather see her wear a hand-woven sari made in our country or a handmade gown made in her own country. But to hybridize the two, in an era of unfiltered diversity, is a superfluous nod to half-acceptance.”

《Vogue》雜志印度版的特約編輯班達(dá)娜·特瓦里(Bandana Tewari)表示，“如果伊萬(wàn)卡想通過(guò)著裝對(duì)我們這樣古老而豐富的文化表示認(rèn)同，尤其是當(dāng)她作為要員來(lái)到這里時(shí)，那么服裝方面的‘致敬’在用意方面應(yīng)該更純正。我們更愿意看到她身穿我們國(guó)家制作的手工莎麗，或者由她的國(guó)家制作的手工禮服。但是，在這個(gè)未經(jīng)過(guò)濾的多元時(shí)代，將這兩者混合到一起只是一種多余的表示，表明她并非完全接納這種文化。”

And therein lies the problem.

問(wèn)題就出在這里。

While on the one hand it is nice to see someone in the Trump administration make an effort to leverage the possibilities of tactical dress, the interpretation was largely through the lens of the outsider looking in. The selections had echoes of orientalism and ornamentation — just as Ms. Trump’s choice of a kimono-inspired dress, complete with obi belt, by the Colombian designer Johanna Ortiz, did in Japan earlier this month. And just as Melania Trump’s Gucci gown with faux Chinese embroidery did during the Trumps’ state visit to China.

雖然我們很高興看到特朗普政府中有人試圖利用服裝作為一種戰(zhàn)術(shù)，但是對(duì)它們的解讀大多是通過(guò)局外人的視角進(jìn)行的。這些服裝反映了東方主義和裝飾風(fēng)格，正如本月早些時(shí)候，伊萬(wàn)卡在訪問(wèn)日本時(shí)選擇了哥倫比亞設(shè)計(jì)師約翰娜·奧爾蒂斯(Johanna Ortiz)設(shè)計(jì)的和服風(fēng)格禮服，搭配和服寬腰帶。特朗普夫婦對(duì)中國(guó)進(jìn)行國(guó)事訪問(wèn)時(shí)，梅拉尼婭也是選擇了一件帶有仿制中國(guó)刺繡的古馳(Gucci)禮服。

Instead of wearing work by a designer that spoke to the nuances of the country (a tactic adopted often by Michelle Obama, for example), Ms. Trump opted, at least initially, for the most obvious: clothes by outsiders who dipped into their fantasy of India as opposed to its reality.

特朗普沒(méi)有穿著反映這個(gè)國(guó)家微妙精髓的設(shè)計(jì)師的服裝(那是米歇爾·奧巴馬[Michelle Obama]經(jīng)常采用的策略)，而是選擇了——至少在一開(kāi)始是這樣——最淺白的：一些局外人設(shè)計(jì)的服裝，反映的是他們對(duì)印度的幻想，而非事實(shí)。

Which is probably why the dress she wore to a session on Wednesday, by the London-based, Bombay-born designer Saloni Lodha, a red floral print with black lace trim at the sleeves, stood out.

這很可能是她周三在一個(gè)座談會(huì)上穿的裙子脫穎而出的原因，那條裙子是孟買(mǎi)出生的倫敦設(shè)計(jì)師薩洛尼·洛達(dá)(Saloni Lodha)設(shè)計(jì)的，一條袖子有黑色蕾絲邊的紅色印花裙。

As Ms. Lodha says on her website: “I always keep in mind my Indian heritage while designing but don’t translate it literally into our clothes. I think the way we, as a brand, celebrate bold colors and patterns is our way of bringing the spirit of India into the collections.”

正如洛達(dá)在自己的網(wǎng)站上說(shuō)的：“我設(shè)計(jì)時(shí)始終沒(méi)有忘記自己的印度傳統(tǒng)，但我不會(huì)直白地把它反映到我們的服裝上。我認(rèn)為，作為一個(gè)品牌，我們發(fā)揚(yáng)大膽色彩和圖案的方式是將印度的精神帶到我們的服裝系列中。”

“Spirit,” instead of, say, stereotype.

“精神”，而不是刻板印象。

Still, from there Ms. Trump went even further: After she appeared in a cream-and-black lace dress by the Indonesian designer Biyan Wanaatmadja to tour the Golconda Fort in Telangana State, she chose to make her departure in a traditional kurta dress in ivory and green.

不過(guò)，從那之后，伊萬(wàn)卡走得更遠(yuǎn)了：在游覽特倫甘納州的戈?duì)柨走_(dá)堡壘(Golconda Fort)時(shí)，她穿的是印尼設(shè)計(jì)師碧妍·瓦納特馬達(dá)(Biyan Wanaatmadja)設(shè)計(jì)的一件奶油色加黑色蕾絲連衣裙;她離開(kāi)印度時(shí)，選擇了一件象牙色加綠色傳統(tǒng)庫(kù)爾塔連衣裙。

She looked “like an Indian Barbie doll” the news outlet India Today said, with apparent approval. Whether that was actually the last impression Ms. Trump wanted to leave on a trip that was supposed to be about “women first” is not entirely clear.

新聞門(mén)戶網(wǎng)站今日印度(India Today)稱(chēng)，她看起來(lái)“像個(gè)印度芭比娃娃”，顯然是表示認(rèn)可。這是否真的是伊萬(wàn)卡想在這次本應(yīng)關(guān)于“女性優(yōu)先”的訪問(wèn)中留下的最后印象，就不是特別清楚了。