2014，一個(gè)折騰的時(shí)尚年

5 Highs (and Lows) From the Year in Fashion

2014，一個(gè)折騰的時(shí)尚年

It’s been a funny, mixed-up year in fashion.

對(duì)時(shí)尚界來(lái)說(shuō)，今年是有趣、混亂的一年。

Simply consider the fact that the biggest trendsetter of September’s fashion month was neither a fashion brand nor one based in the big four fashion capitals (New York, London, Milan, Paris). It was Apple, and its unveiling of the Apple watch took place in Cupertino, Calif. — though it made waves all the way to Colette, on the Rue St.-Honoré.

想想看，9月時(shí)裝月中最大的領(lǐng)潮者既不是一個(gè)時(shí)裝品牌，也不在四大時(shí)裝之都(紐約、倫敦、米蘭和巴黎)，而是蘋(píng)果公司——它在加利福尼亞州庫(kù)比蒂諾發(fā)布了蘋(píng)果手表，不過(guò)這股浪潮一直席卷到巴黎圣奧諾雷大街的科萊特精品店。

Or consider the fact that in June a celebrity not known for her irony got up to receive a “fashion icon” award wearing effectively nothing.

或者想想看，6月份，一個(gè)并非以諷刺聞名的名人上臺(tái)接受“時(shí)尚偶像”獎(jiǎng)時(shí)實(shí)際上什么也沒(méi)穿。

Rihanna wasn’t, as it happened, implicitly making a searing Emperor’s New Clothes commentary about the prêt-à-porter universe when she accepted her prize from the Council of Fashion Designers of America in a see-through “dress” by Adam Selman, but she was creating an Instagrammable moment. As for the rest of us, we were caught between celebrating social media and bemoaning what it might mean for style.

蕾哈娜(Rihanna)身穿亞當(dāng)·塞爾曼(Adam Selman)透視“連衣裙”領(lǐng)取美國(guó)時(shí)裝設(shè)計(jì)師協(xié)會(huì)的時(shí)尚偶像獎(jiǎng)時(shí)，并不是想用辛辣的皇帝新裝暗諷成衣界，但她的確在Instagram上引起軒然大波。而我們其他人的心情則介于贊美社交媒體和哀嘆它對(duì)時(shí)尚的重要意義之間。

And so it went: up and down and back and forth. During the resort shows, brands were split straight down the middle between those that opted for a mega-moment, complete with traveling collection and flown-in supermodels (Louis Vuitton, unveiling its resort collection in Monaco; Dior coming to Brooklyn), and those that refused to even allow a photo out in public until the clothes went into stores (Céline).

所以這一年就是前后左右來(lái)回折騰。在度假系列時(shí)裝秀上，各大品牌的做法大相徑庭：有的選擇制造轟動(dòng)一刻，用飛機(jī)接送超級(jí)模特展示旅行系列(路易·威登[Louis Vuitton]在摩納哥發(fā)布度假系列;迪奧[Dior]選擇在布魯克林發(fā)布新裝);有的則在服裝到店前拒絕泄露哪怕一張照片(比如賽琳 [Céline])。

You might blame it on the seemingly irreconcilable standoff in Washington, one side pitted against the other, or even the unpredictable weather switcheroos from hot to cold and back again, but the oppositions were enough to give you conceptual whiplash. No wonder by the time the pre-fall collections rolled round in December, the biggest trend was a mélange of contrast print in black and white.

你可能會(huì)將這歸罪于華盛頓相互對(duì)抗、似乎不可調(diào)和的局面，甚至歸罪于忽冷忽熱、變幻莫測(cè)的天氣，但這些對(duì)立足以讓你在精神上受到打擊。難怪12月份早秋系列亮相時(shí)，最大的潮流是黑白混雜的對(duì)比圖案。

Fashion reflects reality. The proof is in the pattern.

時(shí)尚反映現(xiàn)實(shí)。證據(jù)就在圖案之中。