香奈兒奢侈回旋鏢惹怒澳大利亞土著，被指侮辱文化傳統(tǒng)

近日，法國(guó)奢侈品牌香奈兒一款售價(jià)高達(dá)1460美元(約合人民幣10000元)的“回旋鏢”在網(wǎng)絡(luò)上引發(fā)論戰(zhàn)。這款木頭和樹(shù)脂制成的跨界產(chǎn)品被指侮辱澳大利亞土著文化?；匦S是澳大利亞土著民族的傳統(tǒng)武器，是土著文化象征符號(hào)之一，曾被應(yīng)用到2000年悉尼奧運(yùn)會(huì)火炬設(shè)計(jì)當(dāng)中。一起來(lái)看看香奈兒的回旋鏢究竟為何惹怒了澳大利亞土著。

You've done your shopping but there's just one thing missing, the thing you absolutely don't need but somehow still want to set yourself apart?

你已經(jīng)掃貨完畢，但還少一件商品。它絕對(duì)不是你需要的，但是不知道為什么，你就是想擁有它來(lái)顯示自己的與眾不同。

Look no further. French luxury brand Chanel has your back: a boomerang for $1,460. A hefty price tag.

不用再找了，法國(guó)奢侈品牌香奈兒懂你，你可以買(mǎi)這款售價(jià)1460美元(約合人民幣10000元)的天價(jià)回旋鏢。

Surely it must be designed by a famous indigenous artist. Sadly, no.

人們都以為這么貴的回旋鏢肯定是由著名的澳大利亞土著藝術(shù)家設(shè)計(jì)的。不幸的是，事實(shí)并非如此。

The indigenous community in Australia says this is yet another example of crass cultural appropriation.

澳大利亞土著群體表示，這是又一個(gè)愚蠢至極的文化挪用典范。

The item is listed on Chanel's website under Other Accessories in the 2017 Spring-Summer pre-collection, along with other gadgets like a pair of beach rackets with balls for £2,860.

這款回旋鏢被掛在香奈兒網(wǎng)站2017春夏系列預(yù)展的“其他裝飾品”分類(lèi)下，與之為伴的小物件還包括一副帶球的沙灘球拍，售價(jià)為2860美元(約合人民幣19700元)。

Spending a little extra to give you that air of luxury should of course not come as a surprise when it comes to brands in the league of Chanel.

讓你多花點(diǎn)錢(qián)來(lái)營(yíng)造奢侈感是香奈兒這樣大牌的套路，這當(dāng)然沒(méi)什么可驚訝的。

It's the name you pay for and the perceived status that comes with it and Chanel will likely not be bothered about having that pointed out to them.

你花錢(qián)買(mǎi)的是牌子和隨之而來(lái)的身份感，香奈兒可能不會(huì)介意有人拿這點(diǎn)說(shuō)事兒。

But accusations of offending or even humiliating an entire indigenous culture are a different ball game and the French luxury brand certainly is feeling some heat.

但是冒犯甚至侮辱整個(gè)土著文化的指控就另當(dāng)別論了，而香奈兒的確招來(lái)了一些憤怒。

"It's simply a misappropriation of aboriginal culture," Gabrielle Sullivan, chief executive of the Indigenous Arts Code, tells the BBC.

“土著藝術(shù)規(guī)范”組織首席執(zhí)行官加布里埃爾•沙利文告訴BBC：“這是擅自挪用土著文化。”

Her organisation has been lobbying against imported and mass produced fake aboriginal artefacts for years.

多年來(lái)，該組織一直在游說(shuō)人們抵制進(jìn)口的和大規(guī)模生產(chǎn)的假冒土著手工制品。

"Chanel is a big company and they really should know better. I don't see how this is different from a cheap fake boomerang sold at the airport. It's just an expensive version of this."

“香奈兒是一家大企業(yè)，他們真的應(yīng)該更好地了解土著文化。我不明白這和機(jī)場(chǎng)里販賣(mài)的山寨廉價(jià)回旋鏢有什么區(qū)別，只不過(guò)是價(jià)格更高而已。”

A cultural symbol

一種文化的象征

Boomerangs have traditionally been used by Australia's indigenous people as a hunting weapon.

自古以來(lái)，澳大利亞土著人就將回旋鏢當(dāng)作狩獵的武器。

But they are more than that, explains aboriginal artist Bibi Barba. They carry significant cultural attachments, are used to pass culture and tradition from one generation to the next.

但土著藝術(shù)家比比•巴爾巴解釋道，回旋鏢不僅僅是一種武器。它們承載了重要的文化信仰，并將土著文化和傳統(tǒng)一代代傳承下去。

"They are a cultural symbol for us," she tells the BBC. "A lot [of] indigenous artists do artwork on them and this artwork is different in different parts of the country, it holds different meaning."

巴爾巴告訴BBC：“對(duì)我們來(lái)說(shuō)，這是一種文化象征。許多土著藝術(shù)家對(duì)它們進(jìn)行藝術(shù)加工，而澳大利亞每個(gè)地區(qū)的藝術(shù)加工不盡相同，包含著不同的意義。”

But it's not just the artwork on the boomerangs that carries cultural signifiers and tradition - even things like the selection process for the wood is of crucial importance.

不僅是這種藝術(shù)加工承載了文化符號(hào)和傳統(tǒng)，甚至連木材的選擇過(guò)程也至關(guān)重要。

Boomerangs are still made by artists in the indigenous community and are popular tourist souvenirs in the country. But most of the boomerangs that tourists carry back home are not made by local communities but mass produced - in many cases not even in Australia.

土著部落的藝術(shù)家們?nèi)匀辉谥谱骰匦S，在澳大利亞，這是一種非常受歡迎的旅游紀(jì)念品。但是大多數(shù)游客帶回家的回旋鏢都不是當(dāng)?shù)夭柯渲谱鞯?，而是批量生產(chǎn)的，甚至很多并非產(chǎn)自澳大利亞。

The Indigenous Arts Code launched a campaign earlier this year to ban imported fake artefacts.

今年早些時(shí)候，“澳洲土著藝術(shù)規(guī)范”組織發(fā)起了一項(xiàng)禁止進(jìn)口假冒手工藝品的活動(dòng)。

The whole point, Ms Sullivan explains, is that "mass-production is taking away the potential for aboriginal people and artists to sell authentic products."

沙利文解釋說(shuō)，“批量生產(chǎn)的回旋鏢搶走了土著人和藝術(shù)家制作的正宗回旋鏢的市場(chǎng)。”

The lack of cultural sensitivity combined with the hefty price tag is a perfect set-up for cynicism and ridicule.

缺乏文化敏感性再加上高昂的價(jià)格，這簡(jiǎn)直是招來(lái)冷嘲熱諷的標(biāo)配。

So what should Chanel do? The backlash on social media in the past two days since the boomerang appeared on their website has already sparked a first reaction.

那么，香奈兒該怎么應(yīng)對(duì)呢?自從該品牌的回旋鏢出現(xiàn)在其官網(wǎng)之后，兩天內(nèi)就在社交媒體上引起了巨大反響，香奈兒也首次給出回應(yīng)。

"Chanel is extremely committed to respecting all cultures, and regrets that some may have felt offended," the French company said in a statement.

該公司發(fā)聲明稱(chēng)：“香奈兒非常致力于尊重所有文化，對(duì)某些文化可能產(chǎn)生的冒犯表示遺憾。”

The luxury copycat

奢侈的山寨品

But just being sorry might not cut it. The countless comments range from witty jokes to straight-forward criticism, calls for apologies but also demand for compensation.

但只是道歉可能不夠。從機(jī)智的嘲諷到直白的指責(zé)，無(wú)數(shù)評(píng)論不僅要求香奈兒道歉，還要求該公司進(jìn)行賠償。

It's a demand that artist Bibi Barba couldn't agree more with.

巴爾巴非常贊同這項(xiàng)要求。

"They should donate the money they make with this to the campaign against fake culture so we can lobby the government to do something about this problem," she says.

她說(shuō)：“他們應(yīng)該把賣(mài)回旋鏢賺到的錢(qián)捐給打擊山寨文化的團(tuán)體，這樣我們就可以游說(shuō)政府對(duì)此采取措施。”

"This current case gets a lot of attention because it's Chanel. But it happens on a huge scale and it happens all the time. Not just with boomerangs but with paintings, didgeridoos and other things."

“當(dāng)下這個(gè)案例得到了很多關(guān)注，那是因?yàn)橹鹘鞘窍隳蝺?。但是這種情況始終存在且規(guī)模巨大。不僅僅是回旋鏢，還有繪畫(huà)、迪吉里杜管(澳大利亞土著使用的一種樂(lè)器)和其他東西。”

And she points out the irony of the bigger picture.

而她從更宏觀的角度指出了這件事的諷刺性。

"Chanel and other luxury fashion brands hate it when people steal their logos and make copies of their products."

“香奈兒以及其他的奢侈品牌最討厭別人盜用他們的商標(biāo)，生產(chǎn)山寨產(chǎn)品。”

"So it would be a good point for them to make amends."

“所以，這也是讓他們作出賠償?shù)暮美碛伞?rdquo;

事實(shí)上，近年來(lái)，眾多大牌對(duì)于跨界樂(lè)此不疲，接連推出各種與奢侈品毫不沾邊的天價(jià)商品。這種瘋狂撈金的做法在賺足眼球的同時(shí)，也受到了各界指責(zé)。比如，LV的防霾面具：

沙袋：

鉛筆：

卡地亞的玉米片：

愛(ài)馬仕的鋼筆：