36小時環(huán)游新加坡

Singapore’s main island is sometimes described as diamond-shaped — fitting, perhaps, since the sparkling city, which had a starring role in the movie “Crazy Rich Asians,” is known for its materialistic pursuits. But look past Singapore’s shiny veneer and you’ll find a compression of Chinese, Indian, Malay and other heritages reaching back far beyond the city state’s half-century history as an independent nation. And thanks to the superb street food and efficient public transit, you don’t have to be crazy rich to enjoy this cinematic city, which is now more accessible than ever with Singapore Airlines’ new nonstop service from Newark.

新加坡的主島有時被形容是個鉆石形——或許這么說很合適，因?yàn)檫@座熠熠生輝的城市以其物質(zhì)追求而聞名，在電影《瘋狂的亞洲富人》(Crazy Rich Asians)中亦扮演了主角。但是看看新加坡那些閃亮的裝飾，你會發(fā)現(xiàn)它濃縮了中國、印度、馬來和其他遺產(chǎn)，遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)超出了這個城邦作為獨(dú)立國家的半個世紀(jì)歷史。由于一流的街頭食品和高效的公共交通，你不必極度富有，就可以享受這個電影般的城市，現(xiàn)在新加坡航空公司提供從紐瓦克出發(fā)的不間斷新航班，前往那里變得前所未有地方便了。

Friday 星期五

1) 5 p.m. In Good Faith 1)下午5點(diǎn)。真心誠意

Begin your visit with a snapshot of Singapore’s past and present on Telok Ayer Street, where Chinese immigrants once arrived on boats. Though land reclamation projects have since filled in the waterfront and gleaming skyscrapers have sprouted around this narrow street, shrines and temples of many creeds have persevered in this faithfully preserved neighborhood. Linger for a few quiet minutes inside Thian Hock Keng, a carefully restored 19th-century temple built by Hokkien immigrants to give thanks for a safe passage across the sea. Past the minarets and arches of the nearby Nagore Dargah Indian Muslim Heritage Centre, walk deeper into Chinatown, where Sri Mariamman, the nation’s oldest Hindu temple, invites visitors to admire the ornate gopuram (gatehouse tower) and colorful shrines.

在旅程的起點(diǎn)，去直落亞逸街迅速瀏覽一遍新加坡的過去和現(xiàn)在，這里是中國移民曾經(jīng)乘船登陸的地方。雖然填海工程已經(jīng)填滿了海濱，閃閃發(fā)光的摩天大樓已在這條狹窄的街道周圍拔地而起，來自不同宗派的神龕和寺廟依然堅(jiān)守在這個被忠實(shí)保存的社區(qū)之中。在天福宮內(nèi)享受幾分鐘的清凈，這是一座經(jīng)過精心修復(fù)的19世紀(jì)寺廟，是福建移民為感謝上天讓他們安全穿越大海而建造的。經(jīng)過附近的納哥德卡印度穆斯林遺產(chǎn)中心(Nagore Dargah Indian Muslim Heritage Centre)的尖塔和拱門，深入唐人街，全國最古老的印度教寺廟馬里安曼廟(Sri Mariamman)正在那里招呼游客來欣賞華麗的gopuram(門樓塔)和色彩繽紛的神龕。

2) 7 p.m. Forget Singaporean Noodles 2)晚上7點(diǎn)。忘記新加坡面條吧

Hawker centers, or food courts, are a quick introduction to Singapore’s pan-Asian palate, allowing diners to sample dishes like crab fried in chili sauce, chicken poached with ginger, and roti served with a fiery curry sauce. Locals debate which hawker center serves the best rendition of a particular dish. Lau Pa Sat distinguishes itself with its soaring cast-iron frame and national monument designation. At night, vendors grilling meat on skewers take over the adjacent Boon Tat Street, erasing the boundary between this lively hawker center and the rest of the city. If you want a more down-home atmosphere, Amoy Street Food Centre (7 Maxwell Road) is popular among locals and Michelin Bib Gourmand critics alike. Expect to pay 3 to 6 Singapore dollars, or about $2.25 to $4.50, for a filling entree.

在攤販中心或美食廣場可以快速了解新加坡的泛亞洲口味，食客可以品嘗到辣醬汁炒蟹、姜燉雞，以及搭配超辣咖喱醬汁的烤肉等簡單菜肴。當(dāng)?shù)厝丝傇跔幷撃膫€攤販中心才有最美味的某種菜肴。老巴剎(Lau Pa Sat)以其高聳的鑄鐵框架和國家紀(jì)念碑而聞名。晚上，用烤肉架烤肉的小販占據(jù)了鄰近的文達(dá)街，抹去了這個熱鬧的攤販中心與城市其他地方的界限。如果你想要更加溫馨的氛圍，廈門街美食中心(Amoy Street Food Centre，馬克斯韋爾路7號)很受當(dāng)?shù)厝撕兔灼淞置朗吃u論家的歡迎。3到6新元、約合2.25美元到4.50美元的一份主菜就夠吃得飽飽的了。

3) 9 p.m. Beyond the Singapore Sling 3)晚9點(diǎn)。超越新加坡司令

The candy-colored shophouses on Amoy Street now house CrossFit gyms, hipster barbershops, Korean barbecue joints and other businesses reflecting Singapore’s trends. The less-than-two-year-old Native dazzles with cocktails made with local ingredients that range from fresh mangoes and salt-baked tapioca to jasmine blossoms and even ants. The hyperlocal approach informs every detail, from the soundtrack of local bands to the compostable coasters of dried lotus leaves and banana stalks (cocktails around 20 Singapore dollars).

廈門街上的糖果色店鋪中有CrossFit健身房、時髦的理發(fā)店、韓國烤肉小店，以及其他反映新加坡潮流的商家。開張不到兩年的Native酒吧有各式各樣由當(dāng)?shù)夭牧现瞥傻碾u尾酒，從新鮮芒果、鹽烤木薯到茉莉花甚至是螞蟻。超本土化風(fēng)格滲透到每個細(xì)節(jié)，從背景播放的當(dāng)?shù)貥逢?duì)，到用干荷葉和香蕉莖制成的環(huán)保杯墊(雞尾酒約20新元一杯)。

Saturday 星期六

4) 11 a.m. East Coast Style 4)上午11點(diǎn)。東海岸風(fēng)格

Avocado toast and single-origin coffee may rule brunches in gentrified Tiong Bahru and up-and-coming Jalan Besar. But when you begin your morning in the laid-back Katong district, full of Easter egg-colored 19th-century villas, opt for the traditional bite of kaya toast, buns or white bread slathered with coconut jam and slabs of butter, served with soft-boiled eggs. Hungry diners (and Instagrammers) line up at the nearly century-old Chin Mee Chin Confectionery, a local institution where charcoal-grilled buns (1 Singapore dollar each) and heaping servings of nostalgia make up for the brusque service. For a heartier meal, sample the district’s interpretation of laksa, a spice-packed coconut curry noodle soup, at various spots such as 328 Katong Laksa (from 5.35 Singapore dollars) and Marine Parade Laksa (50 East Coast Road, No. 01-64; from 4.50 Singapore dollars).

在士紳化的中峇魯和嶄露頭角的扎蘭貝薩，早午餐可能是鱷梨吐司和單一來源咖啡的天下。但是，如果在悠閑的加?xùn)|區(qū)——一個到處是復(fù)活節(jié)彩蛋色的19世紀(jì)別墅的地方——開始一個早晨，就選擇傳統(tǒng)的卡亞吐司，那是一種小圓面包或白面包，上面鋪上椰子醬和黃油片，配上嫩煮蛋。饑腸轆轆的食客(以及Instagram用戶)在擁有近百年歷史的真美真糖果店外排隊(duì)，這是一家本土店鋪，炭烤面包(每個1新元)和豐富的懷舊菜品彌補(bǔ)了粗暴的服務(wù)。如果想要享用一頓更豐盛的美食，可以品嘗這里對叻沙的不同演繹，這是一種充滿香料的椰子咖喱面湯，可以去328加?xùn)|叻沙(Katong Laksa，5.35新元)和海洋天堂叻沙(Marine Parade Laksa，東海岸路50，01-64號，4.50新元起)。

5) 12:30 p.m. Glam Life 5)下午12:30。華麗生活

Serving as the cultural heart of Singapore’s Muslim community, the palm-lined neighborhood of Kampong Glam remains popular with travelers and shoppers alike. Orient yourself around the landmark Sultan Mosque, now 90 years old, yet looking fresher than ever, thanks to the 2016 face-lift that put an extra shine on its golden domes while preserving the original timber door. To go deeper than browsing the near-identical accessory stores, rug shops and hip cafes with vaguely European names on Arab Street and Haji Lane, download the Singapore Heritage Trails app, a free platform with crowdsourced itineraries that uncover stories behind the colorful facades all around Singapore.

作為新加坡穆斯林社區(qū)的文化中心，甘榜格南(Gampong Glam)棕櫚樹林立的街區(qū)仍然深受旅行者和購物者的歡迎。可以到擁有90年歷史的標(biāo)志性蘇丹清真寺(Sultan Mosque)游覽，2016年的修整保留了它原有的木門，同時為其金色圓頂增添了光彩，令它看上去煥然一新。不要只是在阿拉伯街和哈吉巷瀏覽幾乎一模一樣的飾品店、地毯店和名字帶點(diǎn)歐陸風(fēng)情的時尚咖啡館，而是要更加深入，下載新加坡文化遺產(chǎn)路線應(yīng)用，這是一個免費(fèi)平臺，上面有許多人上傳的行程，可以發(fā)現(xiàn)新加坡各地五彩繽紛外表背后的各種故事。

6) 2 p.m. Look and Touch 6)下午2點(diǎn)。看一看，摸一摸

Rest your legs at Looksee Looksee, a 25-seat reading room stocked with an eclectic collection of books on design, art and food. The interior designer John Lim and the architect Yong Sy Lyng created this space using whimsical furniture, tropical prints and quirky fabrics. The pay-what-you-want beverage service features brews by the local tea company A.muse Projects. If this puts you in the mood for souvenir shopping, Supermama next door has porcelain sets featuring the city’s unmistakable skyline, designed in Singapore and made in Kyushu, Japan.

在Looksee Looksee休息，這是一個有25個座位的閱覽室，里面擺放著各種關(guān)于設(shè)計(jì)、藝術(shù)和食物的書籍。室內(nèi)設(shè)計(jì)師約翰約翰·林(John Lim)和建筑師楊思林(Yong Sy Lyng，音)使用異想天開的家具、熱帶印花和古怪的織物創(chuàng)造了這個空間。當(dāng)?shù)夭枞~公司A.muse Projects提供“隨你付”式的飲料服務(wù)。如果你有心情購買紀(jì)念品，隔壁的Supermama提供在新加坡設(shè)計(jì)、在日本九州制造的瓷器套裝，上面描繪著這座城市獨(dú)特的天際線。

7) 3:30 p.m. Artful Living 7)下午3:30。藝術(shù)生活

The former City Hall and Supreme Court buildings were reborn as the ambitious, light-filled National Gallery Singapore in 2015, reflecting the country’s growing interest and pride in homegrown art. Here you’ll find paintings and sculptures from around Southeast Asia that connect the diverse regional styles that transcend national boundaries. Works by local artists like Georgette Chen and Chua Mia Tee offer intimate glimpses of Singapore’s past and present. (Tickets are 20 Singapore dollars for nonresidents.)

前市政廳和最高法院大樓在2015年煥發(fā)新生，成了宏偉、采光充足的新加坡國家美術(shù)館(National Gallery Singapore)，反映了該國對本土藝術(shù)的興趣和自豪感不斷增長。在這里，您可以找到來自東南亞各地的繪畫和雕塑，將超越國界的多元地區(qū)風(fēng)格聯(lián)系在一起。張荔英(Georgette Chen)和蔡名智(Chua Mia Tee)等本土藝術(shù)家的作品讓人可以端詳新加坡的過去與現(xiàn)在。(非本國居民的門票是20新元。)

8) 5:30 p.m. Culture Club 8)下午5:30。文化俱樂部

Jutting out of the waterfront like two durians (the beloved local fruit so pungent that it’s banned on public transit), the performing arts venue The Esplanade hosts over 3,000 events that range from world-class concerts to unpretentious community programs. On any given evening you might happen upon a production of electronica music and video installation, or a concert of art songs by Enrique Granados and Benjamin Britten. Even if you’re not catching a performance, set aside a few minutes for the well-manicured roof terrace garden, which offers sweeping views of the city and Marina Bay.

表演藝術(shù)場地濱海藝術(shù)中心(The Esplanade)像兩個榴蓮一樣伸出海濱(這種備受喜愛的本土水果味道刺鼻，因此禁止在公共交通工具中攜帶)，它迄今舉辦了3000多場活動，從世界級的音樂會到樸實(shí)無華的社區(qū)活動。在任何一個晚上，你可能碰巧看到電子音樂和錄像裝置的演出，或恩里克·格拉納多斯(Enrique Granados)和本杰明·布列頓(Benjamin Britten)的藝術(shù)歌曲音樂會。即使你沒有趕上演出，也可以花幾分鐘的時間，來到修剪整齊的屋頂露臺花園，從這里觀賞城市和濱海灣的全景。

9) 8 p.m. Cure for Hunger 9)晚上8點(diǎn)。療饑時間

No longer a notorious red light district, Keong Saik Road on the edge of Chinatown has seen globally oriented restaurants and bars taking up its Art Deco edifices and narrow shophouse. Among the cevicherias and Australian steakhouses, three-year-old Cure stands out with its smart prix fixe menus (five courses on weekends, 120 Singapore dollars; three courses on weekdays, 95 Singapore dollars). The Irish-born chef-owner Andrew Walsh serves no-holds-barred dishes like a custard of dashi in an onion broth, Wagyu paired with piquant harissa, and snapper steamed tender with fennel. A popular option among locals is Kok Sen Restaurant (30 Keong Saik Road), with diners lining up on the sidewalk for its tze char, or home-cooked Hokkien Chinese cuisine, with dishes like spicy jumbo prawn soup (16 Singapore dollars).

唐人街邊上的恭錫路(Keong Saik)不再是臭名昭著的紅燈區(qū)，今天，國際化的餐廳和酒吧占據(jù)了這里裝飾藝術(shù)風(fēng)格的大廈和狹窄的店屋。在一堆腌海鮮餐廳和澳大利亞牛排館中，三年歷史的Cure以價格固定菜單脫穎而出(周末五道菜，120新元;平日三道菜，95新元)。出生于愛爾蘭的廚師老板安德魯·沃爾什(Andrew Walsh)供應(yīng)各種天馬行空的菜式，像是蒸蛋洋蔥湯、和牛搭配北非辣椒醬、茴香蒸鯛魚。深受當(dāng)?shù)厝讼矚g的一個選擇是國成球記餐室(Kok Se，恭錫30號)，為了它家的福建家常菜，以及辛辣的大蝦湯(16新元)等菜，大家排隊(duì)排到了人行道上。

10) 11:30 p.m. Midnight Gardens of Good 10)晚上11:30。午夜的花園

Few things would encapsulate Singapore better than Gardens by the Bay, a nature park that’s at once lush and futuristic. The 250-acre grounds encompass themed conservatories, winding trails and Supertrees, or vertical gardens rising up to 16 stories and threaded together by suspended walkways. While air-conditioned indoor parks and the 72-foot-tall Skyway close at 9 p.m., the free outdoor gardens remain open until 2 a.m., giving you ample time to admire the wildly lit grounds — with thinner crowds and naturally cooler temperatures.

沒有什么比濱海灣花園更能概括新加坡了，這是一個既郁郁蔥蔥又充滿未來感的自然公園。這個占地101公頃的空間包括主題溫室、蜿蜒的小徑和擎天大樹——16層樓高的垂直花園，由空中步道相連。雖然帶溫控系統(tǒng)的室內(nèi)公園和22米高的空中步道在晚上9點(diǎn)就關(guān)閉了，但免費(fèi)的戶外花園一直開放到凌晨兩點(diǎn)，令你有充分的時間去領(lǐng)略闌珊燈火，而且此時游客更少，氣溫更涼爽。

Sunday 星期日

11) 9 a.m. Not That Coney Island 11)上午9點(diǎn)。此科尼島非彼科尼島

Those who can’t commit a whole day to the time capsule of Pulau Ubin, a rustic island of tin-roof shacks and mangrove-lined lakes, can indulge in an easier getaway with a trip to Coney Island Park. Over 80 bird species, including collared kingfisher and spotted wood owls, call this 123-acre nature reserve home. Rent a bike from one of several vendors at the nearby Punggol Point Park and breeze through the coastal forestry, or join a guided nature walk (free; registration required at nparks.gov.sg) to discover its diminutive beaches.

那些不能去“時間膠囊”烏敏島(Pulau Ubin，這是一座充滿鄉(xiāng)村氣息的島嶼，有鐵皮屋頂棚屋和紅樹林環(huán)繞的湖泊)泡上一整天的人，可以去科尼島放松一下。包括白領(lǐng)翡翠和點(diǎn)斑林鸮在內(nèi)的80多種鳥類，生活在這個占地50公頃的自然保護(hù)區(qū)里。從附近的榜鵝水道公園(Punggol Point Park)的幾個租車點(diǎn)租一輛自行車，輕松穿過海岸森林，或者參加一個有導(dǎo)游陪同的自然漫步(免費(fèi)，但需要在nparks.gov.sg預(yù)約)，去這里的小海灘看看。

12) 2 p.m. It’s a Small Island After All 12)下午2點(diǎn)。畢竟這是個小島

Steps from Pulau Ubin dock, the lively 270-seat Little Island Brewing Company serves up S.P.A. (a Singaporean take on I.P.A.) and other unpasteurized and unfiltered beers. Grab tamarind-marinated wings (8 Singaporean dollars) and kick back to live music. Jumbo jets taking off from the adjacent Changi Airport are bound for faraway places. But you will want to stretch your weekend in Singapore as long as you can.

距離烏敏島碼頭幾步之遙，有一個270座的小島啤酒廠(Little Island Brewing Company)，這里供應(yīng)新加坡式淡啤酒，以及其他未經(jīng)消毒和過濾的啤酒。手里抓著羅望子腌制的雞翅(8新元)，跟著現(xiàn)場音樂表演搖擺。附近樟宜機(jī)場起飛的大型噴氣式客機(jī)正飛往遙遠(yuǎn)的地方。但你只想在新加坡度一個盡可能長的周末。

Lodging 住宿

The art-filled Vagabond Club, with its own “whiskey library,” offers 41 intimate rooms in the heart of Little India and Kampong Glam; from 275 Singapore dollars.

充滿藝術(shù)氣息的雅客閣酒店(Vagabond Club)提供41間私密性極佳的房間，它有自己的“威士忌圖書館”，地點(diǎn)位于小印度和甘榜格南(Kampong Glam)的中心地帶;價格275新元起。

A former spice shop and distillery is now The Warehouse, a 37-room boutique hotel. You don’t need to jump in the adjacent river to cool down, either: The rooftop has an aquarium-like pool. From 240 Singapore dollars.

37間客房的倉庫酒店(The Warehouse)以前是香料店和釀酒廠。為了涼快，你不用跳進(jìn)酒店旁邊的河里，在這家精品酒店的屋頂就有一個水族箱般的游泳池。價格240新元起。

Centrally located, Chinatown makes a convenient home base with one-bedroom Airbnb rentals starting from 100 Singapore dollars. Jalan Besar, with its coffee shops and rentals averaging between $110 and $150, provides a more laid-back alternative to trendy Tiong Bahru. Keep in mind, however, that short-term rentals under three months remain illegal in Singapore.

因?yàn)榈靥幨兄行?，唐人街地理位置?yōu)越，這里的一居室在愛彼迎(Airbnb)的租金起價100新元。惹蘭勿剎(Jalan Besar)有咖啡店和平均租金在110～150美元之間的房子，與時髦的中峇魯(Tiong Bahr)相比，這里的氣氛更為悠閑。不過要記住，在新加坡，三個月以下的短租仍然是非法的。