CNN時(shí)尚生活志：香奈兒 No.5的故事

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CNN主播

The influence of France on global fashion is undeniable. Chanel made perfume a fashion statement unto itself and Chanel No. 5 a symbol of French style. As part of our special Eye on France coverage, Fionnuala Sweeney previews the new version of the legendary scent ahead of its launch later this year.

法國(guó)對(duì)全球時(shí)尚的影響力毋庸置疑。香奈兒把香水變成了它的時(shí)尚宣言，而香奈兒五號(hào)則成了一種法，式情調(diào)的象征。在我們的《聚焦法國(guó)》特別報(bào)道里，費(fèi)歐紐拉?史威尼搶在這瓶著名香水的新版本于今年下半年推山之前，先去體驗(yàn)了一番。

FIONNUALA SWEENEY, CNN CORRESPONDENT

CNN特派員 費(fèi)歐紐拉·史威尼

Contained in these bottles, the sweet smell of success from one of France's most iconic exports. It's 87 years since Chanel's original No. 5 first filtered through the nostrils of Paris society, and in today's global market, worth an estimated $34 billion a year, it remains the world's best-selling perfume. The company won't disclose sales figures，but at $100 for a 50 milliliter bottle, they have to be substantial.

這些瓶子里裝著成功的甜美氣息，是法國(guó)最經(jīng)典的外銷商品。自從香奈兒五號(hào)在巴黎社交圈里首度飄香以來(lái)，至今已過(guò)了87年。在當(dāng)今的全球市場(chǎng)里，這款香水的價(jià)值據(jù)估計(jì)為每年340億美元，仍然是全世界最暢銷的香水。香奈兒不愿透露銷售數(shù)據(jù)，可是一瓶50毫升裝的香水售價(jià)100美元，可見銷售額必然相當(dāng)巨大。

JACQUES POLGES, MASTER PERFUMER, CHANEL

香奈兒香水師 賈克·波巨

It's a fragrance that is...that used the best ingredients, and then the smell of it, whatever you might find in it, remains mysterious. There is a mystery, and I think that 5 has this quality.

這種香氛……使用了最佳的成分，而且它的味道，不論你感受到的是什么，都帶有一股神秘的氣息。香氛貴在神秘，我認(rèn)為五號(hào)就有這種特質(zhì)。

FIONNUALA SWEENEY, CNN CORRESPONDENT

CNN特派員 費(fèi)歐紐拉·史威尼

No. 5 was first released in 1921. It was the vision of legendary couturier Gabriel Coco Chanel. Together with master perfumer Ernest Beaux, she melded fashion with fragrance and revolutionized the industry.

香奈兒五號(hào)最早于1921年推出，這要?dú)w功于時(shí)裝設(shè)計(jì)師嘉伯麗·可可·香奈兒的遠(yuǎn)見。她與香水師恩尼斯·鮑攜手合作，把時(shí)分成與香氛融合在一起，從此徹底改變了時(shí)尚產(chǎn)業(yè)。

JACQUES POLGES, MASTER PERFUMER, CHANEL

香奈兒香水師 賈克·波巨

Mademoiselle Chanel was the first couturier to create a fragrance. No. 5 is the grammar of her style.

香奈兒女士是第一位制作香水的時(shí)裝設(shè)計(jì)師。五號(hào)正是屬于她的風(fēng)格語(yǔ)法。

FIONNUALA SWEENEY, CNN CORRESPONDENT

CNN特派員 費(fèi)歐紐拉·史威尼

Mademoiselle Chanel died in 1971, but her legacy has been meticulously cared for, particularly when it comes to her cherished No. 5. The precise formula remains a closely guarded secret and completely unchanged from the original. For generations, the key ingredients of rose and jasmine have been harvested from the same fields outside the southern town of Grasse.

香奈兒女士在1971年去世，但她留下的遺產(chǎn)獲得了精心的照顧，尤其是她心愛的五號(hào)香水。這款香水的調(diào)配方式仍是該公司嚴(yán)格保守的秘密，而且自從當(dāng)初的原始版本以來(lái)就從來(lái)不曾改變過(guò)。好幾代以來(lái)，玫瑰與萊莉這兩種關(guān)鍵原料一直都采自格拉斯南方小鎮(zhèn)郊區(qū)的同一片田地上。

CHRISTOPHER SHELDRAKE, DEPUTY PERFUMER, CHANEL

香奈兒副香水師 克里斯多夫·薛爵克

This is extremely concentrated rose, and I think in the smallest bottle of No. 5 there is at least the extract of a dozen roses. Another example is iris, iris root, and it might not look very exciting, but when the lid comes off this, the power is absolutely incredible. And this is currently the most expensive ingredient, I would say, in perfumery. What is this? It's about $80,000 a kilo.

這是高度濃縮的玫瑰水，在五號(hào)香水的小瓶子里至少有一打攻瓏的精華。另一種成分是鳶尾花的根部過(guò)種成分看起來(lái)可能沒什么了不起，可是一旦打開瓶蓋，它散友出來(lái)的香氛實(shí)在令人難以置信我敢說(shuō)這是目前香水界里最昂貴的原料。價(jià)格是多少呢?約一千克8萬(wàn)美元。

FIONNUALA SWEENEY, CNN CORRESPONDENT

CNN特派員 費(fèi)歐紐拉·史威尼

Each bottle is hand-finished and therefore unique, sealed with a strip of ox bladder, a cotton bow and a wax stamp. Steeped in tradition, this is not a perfume to be meddled with, so this autumn should see quite a stir in the department stores. Sitting in mademoiselle's old apartment, Jacques Polges, the current master perfumer at Chanel, has dared to create what will be only the fourth interpretation of the original-No. 5 Eau Premiére.

每個(gè)瓶子都是手工打造的，所以獨(dú)一無(wú)二。完工后用一片牛的膀胱組織封上，加上棉布蝴蝶結(jié)，蓋上蠟印這款香水浸潤(rùn)著深厚的傳統(tǒng)，絕不可隨意擺弄。所以，今年秋季百貨公司應(yīng)該會(huì)出現(xiàn)一陣狂潮。香奈兒現(xiàn)任香水師賈克·波巨坐在香奈兒女上的舊公寓里，大膽地對(duì)原版五號(hào)香水進(jìn)行了第四次詮釋，并稱為 "No. 5 Eau Premiére"。

JACQUES POLGES, MASTER PERFUMER, CHANEL

香奈兒香水師 賈克·波巨

I would describe [it] as a light, fresh, transparent version of No. 5.

我會(huì)說(shuō)它是一款比較輕柔、淡薄而且透明的五號(hào)香水。

CHRISTOPHER SHELDRAKE, DEPUTY PERFUMER, CHANEL

香奈兒副香水師 克里斯多夫·薛爵克

And the idea is that this new version is going to last well into the future, and Mademoiselle Chanel... one of her key codes was, in fact, timelessness.

我們的構(gòu)想是這個(gè)新版本可以流傳很久。香奈兒女士的一個(gè)關(guān)鍵信念就是永恒。

JACQUES POLGES, MASTER PERFUMER, CHANEL

香奈兒香水師 賈克·波巨

We are in the fashion world, but we are trying to obtain fashion that doesn't [go] out of fashion.

我們身處時(shí)尚界里，但我們想要迫求永不過(guò)時(shí)的時(shí)尚。

FIONNUALA SWEENEY, CNN CORRESPONDENT

CNN特派員 費(fèi)歐紐拉·史威尼

These days, most perfumes come and quickly waft away. Few linger in the memory. Whatever the success of the new version, the original will continue its journey of seduction. Not everyone can afford a designer dress, but with just a few drops of perfume, every woman can claim a little of Coco Chanel's timeless style.

在當(dāng)前這個(gè)時(shí)代，大多數(shù)香水都是稍縱即逝的，很少能夠長(zhǎng)存在大眾的記憶里。不論這個(gè)新版本能夠取得多大的成績(jī)，原版的五號(hào)香水仍將繼續(xù)魅惑世人。不是每個(gè)人都買得起設(shè)計(jì)師服飾，但只要滴幾滴香水，每個(gè)女人都可以沾染一點(diǎn)可可?香奈兒的永恒風(fēng)格。